Seoul: The Soulful City That Captured My Heart
A fantastic metropolis of history, culture, parks, markets, food, festivals, shopping, high-tech and 24-hour entertainment, Seoul — and South Korea as a whole — is underexposed and under promoted. However, it doesn’t mean that nothing is happening there. On the contrary, Seoul, in particular, is earning itself a cool reputation that has nothing to do with the weather.
With a population nearing 10 million, unlike other worldly capital cities of soulless concrete and glass, Seoul, once a walled city, now sprawls aimlessly over the surrounding hills and valleys full of enchanting wonders and a fascinating blend of old and new architectural styles, historic grandeur, delicious foods and colourful lifestyles.
Check it out for yourself from the N Seoul Tower on top of Mt Namsan, right in the heart of the city. It’s located within Namsan Park and was built between 1969 and 1971. Accessed by cable car, the 360-degree views from the communications tower or revolving restaurant show the city stretching endlessly in every direction, interspersed with beautiful pockets of green even in winter (when I visited). You don’t miss out on the views when visiting the bathroom either!
Down in the city itself, Lotte World Tower, which opened in April 2017, is now the tallest building in Seoul and the fifth in the world at 555 metres. It’s part of the Lotte World shopping centre and a large indoor amusement park and ice-skating rink. It has the world’s fastest elevator, highest building swimming pool and the most elevated glass-bottomed observation deck (if you’re game enough to walk on it).
Seoul is divided in half by the Han River with central downtown being home to the most ancient palaces and famous buildings including the gates and part of the wall that initially protected the city. There are five important palaces in Seoul. If you don’t want to visit them all, make sure Gyeongbokgung, the largest and grandest palace, and Changdeokgung, a beautifully preserved royal villa over six centuries old, are on your list.
The UNESCO Heritage-listed royal Gyeongbok Palace was built in 1395 by King Taejo of the Joseon Dynasty. There are over 300 buildings, the National Palace Museum of Korea and the National Folk Museum of Korea on the vast grounds. A must-see is the colourful twice-daily Changing of the Royal Guards ceremony held at the main Gwanghwamun Gate.
Serving as a royal residence from 1405 to 1872, Changdeok Palace is also UNESCO World Heritage-listed. Join the twice-daily English-speaking tour and discover more about the famous buildings and beautiful secret garden. From April to October, there are guided evening Moonlight Tours, cultural performances, traditional dance and traditional tea ceremonies till 10.00 pm. Visitors can also hire traditional costumes from nearby shops and walk around the palace, pretending to be a King or Queen for the day.
Other palaces that attract a steady stream of visitors include Changgyeonggung and Deoksugung, as well as the Jongmyo Shrine — all of which are located within downtown Seoul.
However, my favourite spot of all (aside from the Changing of the Guards) was the small Jogyesa Buddhist Temple built in 1936. Perhaps it was because there was a service happening at the time, but it oozed tranquillity from the moment we walked through the entrance gate. Despite the apparent tourist trappings around the edges, it was a sanctuary amidst the chaotic city hustle and bustle at its doorstep.
Situated on top of a hill between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung is Bukchon Hanok Village. Walking the narrow alleys, you get a close-up look at the traditional residential quarters of high-ranking government officials and nobility containing exquisite architecture no longer seen, and over 600 years of history. You can enjoy a free walking tour through the village too, but be respectful, the majority of these houses are not mere museum pieces — they are still family-owned and occupied homes.
As such, the area is only open to walk through between 10 am and 5 pm Monday to Saturday. Unlike Ikseon-dong Hanok Village in Jongno, near the Jongmyo Shrine, where its 30 square metre Hanoks were created by Jeongsekwon (or Mr Jeong), Korea’s first modern architect in the 1920s for ordinary people during hard times. But today they have been turned into mostly art/craft shops, cafes and restaurants.
The hilltop neighbourhood of Ihwa, near Naksan Park, was almost demolished until it was revitalised through a public art project. Now its street art and sculptures make it a charming place for a stroll. With city views, it’s an ideal place to visit and watch the sun go down.
When the new Seoul Station, the central terminal for the majority of Korea’s train routes, was built beside the old historic Seoul Station building in 2004, the old building was preserved and opened as Culture Station Seoul 284 in 2011. It houses informative historical material and hosts a variety of performances, exhibitions, and events. The building’s architecture is stunning. It’s open daily from 10.00 am to 7.00 pm except for Mondays.
If you enjoy art, the Leeum Samsung Museum of Art has an impressive display of traditional and contemporary Korean art across three remarkable buildings designed by leading architects (the most famous of which is a stainless steel structure from France’s Jean Nouvel). Artists including Warhol, Rothko and Damien Hirst feature in the permanent collection.
Walking tours along the Seoul City Wall are also popular. Built in the late 14th century and connected by eight gates, the wall originally surrounded the old city. Other delightful walks open all year linking parts of the city include Seoullo 7017, Seoul’s newest pedestrian walkway and sky garden opened in 2017 along the original 17 sectioned, 17-metre elevated road built to connect east and west areas around Seoul Station in 1970. Apart from the beautifully lit garden beds at night, along Seoullo 7017 you’ll find an information centre, performing hubs, cafes and more.
Between downtown Dongdaemun and Gwangjang Markets is the restored 11-kilometre natural waterway of Cheonggyecheon. Running east-west it was built during the Joseon Dynasty (1392 to 1910), and later covered by transportation infrastructure. The $900 million urban renewal and restoration project opened in 2005. Now it’s extremely popular with locals and visitors alike. Alive with fish, the waters attract many birds, and it has become a sanctuary to unwind, admire life, exhibitions and more.
With most shops open late, it’s a good idea to do your sightseeing early. Most areas also have lovely, traditional street stalls, cafes and restaurants down the side streets so you can replenish along the way.
Seoul’s most famous and ultimate mecca for shopping is Myeong-dong. Stretching for approximately one kilometre in the heart of downtown, it’s your one-stop shopper’s paradise with high-end department stores, franchise cosmetic and fashion stores, duty-free, brand shops and more. Fabulous street stall foods also abound.
For more traditional items, check out the oldest continuous market in Seoul, Namdaemun. Other traditional arts and crafts can be found in Insa-dong. But Dongdaemun is renowned for being the biggest discount and retail shopping area with over 30,000 shops and 50,000 manufacturers open 24-hours daily. Don’t miss the iconic futuristic Dongdaemun Design Plaza building. Designed by Zaha Hadid, it hosts design-related shows, exhibitions, events and conferences.
If you haven’t gathered it by now, Koreans love eating and there’s no shortage of substantial foods. But if you think it’s centred around barbecues, fried chicken and kimchi, be prepared to be educated. Traditional Korean meals cover every inch of the table with a variety of side dishes. Favourites include samgyetang (ginseng chicken), bibimbap (rice served with a variety of ingredients on top), bulgogi (marinated beef), japchae (potato noodles), dak gomtang (hot chicken soup), hobakjuk (a sweet pumpkin porridge) or naengmyeon (cold buckwheat noodles). Also try kalguksu, Korean handmade knife-cut noodles. Don’t worry if you can’t read the menu. There are usually large pictures of the dishes.
Markets are fun and a sensory overload. With over 200 vendors selling everything from fruit, vegetables, nuts, meats, pancakes and live seafood (yes live octopus, it still wriggles and is a delicacy in Korea!) you can literally eat your way around Gwangjang Market. It is the city’s largest and most famous traditional market. The outdoor market is just the tip. Inside you’ll find textiles, fabrics, homewares and more.
At Noryangjin Fish Market be prepared to see every kind of sea creature, some you’ve never seen before in your life! With 700 different stalls and restaurants, you’ll taste the freshest seafood. Pick your fish, then go upstairs and they’ll cook it for you. If you’re still up and partying, at 1.00 am the auctioning of the day’s fish, squid, crabs and prawns begins, making for exciting viewing.
Hongdae is another fascinating place to walk about. It’s alive with musicians, buskers and underground rappers. There’s an array of unique shops, gourmet eateries, buzzing bars, cozy clubs and quirky cafes including a Cat Café where you can enjoy a drink or meal with friendly felines.
Siloam Sauna is the ideal way to relax and unwind from a busy day sightseeing or shopping. Located in Jung-gu near Seoul Station, they use natural, high-quality Germanium water from 300 metres underground. You’ll find a variety of hot baths, sauna rooms, sleeping rooms and other facilities. It accommodates a maximum of 3,000 people. Daytime visitors must leave by midnight and night-time visitors must leave by noon the following day.
No matter where I went, I always felt safe in Seoul, and if I got lost, it added to the adventure. Virtually every neighbourhood was filled with a fantastic mix of traditional buildings next to beautiful modern architecture; even exquisitely crafted paper lanterns floating gently down a canal. Wherever I turned, there was always something delightfully unexpected including in Seoul’s underground where I discovered an array of interesting shops and restaurants, some with unusual water features.
Most people in Seoul also speak English, unlike other parts of South Korea. But if you are not sure, ask a young-looking student. Throughout Korea, they were always helpful. If you’re really stuck remember Google translate. Just in case write down or take a photo on your phone of where you are going.
Seoul, its people, history (old and new), foods and lifestyle captured my heart and soul.
Header image: © Nannette Holliday
