Delightfully Delicious Daejeon
Despite its nearly 52 million population, South Korea has a relaxed pace that inspires travellers to discover its bountiful beauty. While most visitors see only Seoul or Busan, one of the best places to connect with South Korea's delights is its central-western, fifth-largest city, Daejeon.
Like most others, I probably never would have stopped in Daejeon had it not been for a two-week house/pet sit there. But I’m so glad the owners chose me. I not only discovered the uniqueness and charm of the city and surrounding region, but I enjoyed exploring its many sights, finding Korea’s only winery, eating way too many delectable Korean delights and getting addicted to Soju like a local.
My house/pet sit for Naja, a gorgeous rescue dog, was based on-campus at Hannam University. Being close to Daejeon’s city centre, with a plethora of shops, restaurants, cafes and bars, plus a bus running right past my door, made it a great base.
With a population today of almost 1.5 million, Daejeon began as Hanbat (meaning grand field). On the Taejon River, this small country village surrounded by bountiful agricultural lands grew during Japanese occupation years, becoming known as Taejon (or Daejeon), which still means grand fields.
Daejeon city at night with the colourful Expo Bridge over Gap River. Image: © Panwasin Seemala
Today, this metropolitan city sprawls over 540 square kilometres, encompassing the Gap and Yudeung Rivers and is the central transportation hub for all road and rail between Seoul, 160 km or an hour north, and the port of Busan, 200 km or a two-hour KTX train ride to the south.
Public transport throughout all South Korea is tremendous. Whether it be bus, train, subway or taxi, it’s safe, clean, convenient, and most of all, frequent, on time and cheap. Getting around Daejeon was so easy. Everything can be paid for with a T-money card. Purchased from most convenience stores, you just load your money and tap away. This card can also be used at some pay phones, stores and vending machines.
While almost 70 per cent of the city was destroyed during the Korean War, hence its mostly modern skyline, Daejeon has retained much of its heritage and culture interspersed between appealing museums, parks and universities.
The 18 universities have earned Daejeon the title, 'University City'. It’s also known as 'Asia's Silicon Valley' due to its prolific research and technology focused institutions. The Korea Advanced Institute of Science and Technology, established in 1971, was Korea’s first, and is now its top university, creating innovations that drive its economic growth in ICT and electronics — benchmarked by many other countries around the world.
The local supermarket near my housesit in Daejeon. Image: © Nannette Holliday
South Korea embraces technology and has cheap, super-fast internet everywhere. It’s easy to book and pay for everything from transportation, travel or movie tickets, shopping, ordering food to navigation, watching tv shows or movies at home or connecting and sharing your day with loved ones in your home country online.
Daejeon is a city designed for its residents rather than tourists, which means life is much slower with vast parks and walkable areas filled with friendly locals.
After hosting the 1993 International Expo, the area became a recreational park. Expo Science Park contains beautiful parklands. Hanbit Tower, the central 93-metre-high tower during the Expo, is now an observatory with expansive views across the park. There’s also a memorial hall and museum commemorating the World Expo, the Traffic Cultural Institute which has a history of transportation display and where children learn traffic safety, and an amusement park.
Adjacent to Expo Park is the expansive Dunsan Grand Park. Built some two years before the Expo, it’s a mecca for art and culture, offering a wide variety of cultural gardens, facilities, and open-air retreats for events. Venues include the Youth Culture Centre, Daejeon Art & Culture Centre, Museum of Art, the Convention Centre and the Yeonyeong Traditional Korean Music Centre.
The imposing Daejeon Art & Culture Centre at Dunsan Grand Park. Image: © Nannette Holliday
The National Science Museum across the road covers Korean natural history, dinosaurs, human biology, the cosmos, industrial technology, and there is a Korean F-86 Sabre fighter plane, a steam engine and much more. Under a dome, the Astronaut Hall planetarium features regular 242-seat shows.
On the south bank of Gap River, connected by the futuristic Expo Bridge to Expo Science Park, is the 37-hectare Hanbat Arboretum. This is Korea’s largest manmade urban arboretum and has a network of pathways between Nammun Square, the East and West Gardens and 19 specifically themed parks. There’s also an eco-learning centre, a glass plaza and a lake pavilion. Its peaceful recreational areas are popular with locals all year round.
Expo Bridge is a footbridge designed by Hui Lee Shun. Its tall arches are illuminated at night, reflecting magically in the river. A fountain flanks the bridge and during summer people canoe, water bike or paddle the river.
If you’re into the history of money, the nearby free-entry Currency Museum provides an interesting insight into the Korean Won. View the first metal coin, the world’s first alloy coin, commemorative coins, charms, historic banknotes — the first from 1902 — and learn about anti-counterfeiting measures over the years.
The Skyroad shopping street at night with its illuminated roof. Image: © Nannette Holliday
Enjoy shopping? There’s plenty to keep you occupied around Daejeon — and much cheaper than Seoul. My favourite is Skyroad. Not only is there an abundance of shops with everything from cosmetics, jewellery, fashions, shoes and electronics, but there's also heaps of ground-level cafes, restaurants, bars and karaoke spots to choose from, all open till late. At nightfall, the covered pedestrian walkway lights up. The 20-metre high, 214-metre long LED colourful, animated canopy becomes an artist's palette interspersed with advertising.
Feeling peckish? There’s plenty of cozy restaurants and street stalls in all neighbourhoods to ensure you’ll get your fix of kimchi, gamjatang, pajeon, fried dumplings (mandu), scallion pancakes and sundae (no, not ice cream) — a blood red sausage filled with transparent noodles (dangmyeon). Massive bowls of haejangguk and kimchi jjigae, costing less than seven dollars are hard to resist. Frequenting your favourite restaurant or vendor also has its benefits here; the friendly staff reward you with extra generous servings.
If you’re missing home, Gung-dong has loads of foreign food and excellent cheap eats, including all-you-can-eat Korean Barbecues. Check out Ranch Brewery, best known for their range of craft beers.
For over 60 years Sung Sim Dang Bakery has been creating an array of taste-tempting pastry treats. Not far from Jungangno Station, they are unique to this city because they won’t expand. Their fried streusel bread (twigim soboro), a sweet red bean paste encased in a crunchy cookie, is possibly the most famous item with people travelling for miles to get their fix.
Korean traditional dresses (hanboks) on display in a local market. Image: © Nannette Holliday
Some of Daejeon’s quirkiest cafes and restaurants are around this eastern quarter of the city in downtown Eunhaeng-dong and near Daejeon Station. Occupying old abandoned buildings and traditional Korean houses between cultural classics and traditional markets you’ll discover a chilled, cool, calm atmosphere.
Like the rest of Daejeon, the vast Jungang Market is not touristy either. Stretching from Daejeon Station to Daejeonchon River, its maze of trading areas and indoor halls house everything from herbal medicines, hardware, kitchen items, electronics, clothing and hanbok (traditional dress) for locals, to over 30 specialist street food stalls where you can sit on a small plastic stool in front of a little eatery with the locals. To wash all this delectable food down there’s always Korean Soju or Makgeolli available, or nearby. Learn more about Korean drinks here.
A surprise find smack bang in the middle of Daejeon’s Oncheon-dong’s urban surrounds was Yuseong Hot Springs. This ancient outdoor spa is free with two footbaths and a peaceful waterway. The oldest in South Korea, the healing alkaline water comes from more than 200 metres below at 27 to 56-degree Celsius temperatures.
Daejeon’s O-World is another surprising find ten-minutes bus ride from the city centre. While it has a family amusement park (Joy Land), it offers much more. Set amongst the stunning southern mountainside, you’ll also discover more than 600 animals, including black bears, Korean wolves, giraffe, elephants and Bengal tigers inhabiting Zoo Land. Plus, penguins, emus and flamingos in Bird Land and peaceful, scented roses, herbs and even a maze in botanical Flower Land.
Bottles of locally produced wine on sale at Chateau Mani. Image: © Nannette Holliday
The adjacent agricultural plains grow most of the country’s fruit and vegetables — some of the largest and freshest I’ve ever eaten. Set amongst these fields in Yeongdong, a 30-minute slow train ride from Daejeon is Wine Korea at Chateau Mani, Korea’s only winery. Their unique wines are produced from locally grown fruits, vegetables, and table grapes and perfectly complement Korean food.
With time to get out into the countryside, I explored Daejeon's mystical mountains, connecting with nature along the picturesque walking and hiking trails and recreational picnic spots.
An hour’s bus ride away is Daedunsan Mountain with its breathtaking scenery. This area is spectacular during autumn when the trees are showered in brilliant reds and oranges, or the snowy white winters. Cross the Geumgang Gureum Bridge (a 40-metre long suspension bridge) and the 50-metre long, 127-step, 70-degree angle Cloud Bridge (Samseon Overpass), do the hour’s hike or ride the cable car to the top and zipline down for a more thrilling descent.
Get even closer to nature by walking the 14.5-kilometre red clay Gyejoksan Hwangtogil Trail barefooted between Spring and Autumn. East of Daejeon, the gradual inclined one to two-hour trail passes luxuriously fragrant Jangdong Recreational Forest, rejuvenating waterways and the fourth-century Gyejoksanseong Fortress. Your reward at the end? A refreshing Soju or Makgeolli while you soak your clay laden feet.
Cheap Korean street food can be a highlight of a visit to Daejeon. Image: © Nannette Holliday
Another lush valley south of Daejeon is Jangtaesan Recreational Forest. Offering walking trails, a reservoir, outdoor gym equipment, an elevated treetop walk and panoramic views from the Sky Tower. There are also cabins for those wishing to stay longer.
Daejeon city’s slogan was ‘It’s Daejeon’, and after my stay there I understood it perfectly. The slow-paced city isn’t boring, but it’s not outrageous either. Its people are friendly, happy and open. Even if they can’t speak English, their smiles say it all. And everything from shopping, eating or drinking out to travelling around was cheap.
One of the best things about living like a local in Daejeon was being able to walk around and spend time investigating places. Don’t be afraid to check out those little laneways with the men playing chess or the women taking a break from kitchen chores on their little plastic stools. The locals didn’t mind me being there. As a lone female, I found Daejeon one of the safest cities I’ve ever walked around, day or night. I never once felt afraid, threatened or uncomfortable. It’s Daejeon, and I loved every deliciously delightful moment.
Header image: © Sahachatz
