What to See and Do in Historic Tbilisi
Tbilisi, an ancient city overrun by history and tradition, is fast becoming one of the most desired destinations in Asia for older travellers. Tucked away in a valley on the continental bridge between Eastern Europe and Western Asia is a city formed through centuries of conquests and migrations. Today, Tbilisi is a treasure trove of cultural heritage, culinary delights, and modern reimagining.
Travel in Georgia has been branded undeniably affordable and increasingly accessible. Public transport is efficient and affordable taxi services are abundant, making it perfect for travellers of any calibre. Exploring on foot remains one of the best ways to see what the city is made of.
A crisp autumn day in Georgia’s capital, Tbilisi. Image: Kent Tupas
Summers in the city are hot and many tourists flee towards the coast, but winters are less extreme than in other parts of the region. The jovial Christmas spirit also livens up dreary winter days. Springtime serves up unbeatable weather and in the autumn the city turns a hazy shade of orange as the cooler days take their toll. Each season brings with it new adventures and the city is constantly changing its rhythm as the seasons pass.
Tbilisi has more to discover than you could even begin to imagine but here is a beginner’s guide to the unmissable stops in the city.
Have a Scrub
The name Tbilisi translates to ‘warm place’, referring to the abundance of natural hot springs pulsing under the city. The healing waters were one of the main reasons the location of Tbilisi was chosen as Georgia’s new capital in the 5th century. The pungent smell of sulphur hangs thick in the air in the Abanotubani neighbourhood, leading you into the direction of the iconic sulphur baths.
The Chreli Abano sulphur bath in Tbilisi’s old town. Image: Georgy Trofimov
The geothermal activities underfoot have made this the perfect spot for Persian-Ottoman-style bathhouses to be erected. Chreli Abano is the most striking of all with its grand blue mosaicked exterior. Book a private room for you or your group and enjoy a soak in the healing sulphur waters. For a truly authentic experience, book an exfoliating scrub, a Kisi, to rejuvenate your skin.
Narikala Fortress
When you drive into the city from the airport, the first striking structure you lay eyes on is Narikala Fortress. The fortress walls date back to the 4th century but much of it has been destroyed by earthquakes and wars. Today you can wander around the ruins and visit the restored Church of St. Nicholas.
Adjacent to the fortress is the impressive Mother of Georgia statue. Kartlis Dedacame to life in 1958, the year Tbilisi celebrated a massive milestone, its 1500th anniversary. She stands 20m tall and in one hand she holds a bowl of wine to welcome those who come in peace. In the other, she clutches a sword, for those who come as enemies.
A dusk view of Narikala Fortress overlooking the city. Image: Denis Arslanbekov
Both the fortress and statue are must-visit entities but should also be viewed from different vantage points across the city to be truly appreciated.
Go Antique Shopping
Georgia and antiques go hand in hand, and you will be sorely mistaken if you think you will head home without a few knick-knacks in your bag. The Dry Bridge market is the Mecca of all things old and intriguing. Hundreds of sellers line the bridge and sidewalks displaying their treasures, ripe for rummaging.
You will find many Soviet artifacts like war medals, gas masks, KGB ID books, maps, and cameras. You can also find antique china, vinyl records, carpets, and all sorts of decorations. It is worth taking your time to dig around and keep in mind there is room to bargain.
Eat Local Cuisine
Georgian food is unlike any other cuisine in the world. Many dishes originated in mountainous areas with limited ingredients so expect meat-heavy dishes overflowing with herbs and flavour. This is also not the place to try and avoid carbs as almost every dish is accompanied by generous helpings of bread or dough in some shape or form.
A vegetarian café in a Tbilisi back street. Image: Mark Billante
Tbilisi is definitely a foodies’ destination and although you’ll find meat on most menus, there are also plenty of scrumptious vegetarian options and most restaurants offer ‘fasting menus’ with strict vegan dishes for religious purposes.
The first dish on your list simply has to be Khinkali. Basic dumplings filled with meat, mushrooms, cheese, or potatoes have become the pride and joy of the nation. Beware of the strict etiquette surrounding these simplistic snacks though. Never attempt to eat one with a fork and always leave behind the top dough that you grab the Khinkali by. Two simple rules that will save you much embarrassment.
Khachapuri is one of the most decadent feasts that will come before you. Each region has a different interpretation, but two things remain constant, bread and cheese. The Adjarian version involves a boat-shaped baked bread filled with a puddle of cheese, butter, and egg and is every bit as decadent as it sounds.
The Adjarian version of khachapuri. Image: Mike Swigunski
Georgians pride themselves on their barbequed meats. Eat your way through the menu by trying the Mtsvadi (BBQ pork or chicken fried with onions), Ojakhuri (roast meat and potatoes), Ostri (beef stew), and kebabs.
The crème de la crème however is Shkmeruli. An indulgent dish of chicken smothered in a creamy garlic sauce. Make sure to schedule a nap after this feast!
Do a Wine Tasting
Georgia has the oldest wine culture in the world and can be traced to more than 8000 years ago. Winemaking is not an elite practice as in the rest of Europe and almost every household grows grapes and makes their own house wine. It is a labour of love, and you will be prompted to try one of these house delicacies more than a few times.
One of Tbilisi’s many wine cellars. Image: Vadym Lebedych
To savour some of the more refined wines head to any of the hundreds of wine cellars in the city. They range from small single-origin wine shops to grand tasting rooms with hundreds of wines in their arsenal. Georgia is home to more than 500 grape varietals so you can only imagine how many wine styles you can expect. Some wines are also produced in a traditional qvevri, a clay pot buried underground to regulate the temperature. This offers the wine a unique minerality, unlike any other wine-making style.
The wines are mostly divided into three categories: sweet, dry, and amber. But a wine tasting from a sommelier is the only sure-fire way to get acquainted with this dynamic wine culture.
Explore the Churches
Religion is an integral part of the fibre of Georgian life. Georgia was the second country in the world to adopt Christianity as its official religion and today more than 80% of the population identify as Eastern Orthodox. Some churches in the country are well over 1000 years old and feature stunning frescoed ceilings that have stood the test of time.
There are two churches you cannot miss when visiting Tbilisi. The first is the oldest church in the city, Anchiskhati Basilica. It was completed in the 6th century but compared to other structures in the city, it might seem somewhat modest. However, during Sunday mass the church comes alive thanks to the centuries-old tradition of Georgian polyphony. This chanting style of singing is a spellbinding experience that must be witnessed to be understood.
The Holy Trinity Cathedral is floodlit at night. Image: Mostafa Meraji
The second church is the Holy Trinity Cathedral, the largest in the country. It is a new structure and was only completed in 2004. But its sheer magnitude and imposing presence makes it awe-inspiring. At night, the cathedral is flooded with lights and its golden roof can be seen from most any vantage point in the city. It is a symbol of the ‘new Georgia’ and was completed after centuries of political turmoil came to an end with the fall of the Soviet Union.
Appreciate Old and New Architecture
Tbilisi is constantly serving up contrasting architecture around every corner. Ultra-modern buildings with futuristic designs are surrounded by historic houses with rickety staircases winding to the top. This juxtaposition is iconic of Tbilisi and best explored on foot.
Some of the unmissable modern buildings include the Public Service Hall (aka the Mushroom building), the Bridge of Peace, and Rike Park Concert Hall. These are all around the old town and next to the river.
Tbilisi’s modern pedestrian-only Bridge of Peace. Image: Mahmoud Sayed
The cobbled streets of Sololaki (Old Town) are intimidating with their steep inclines but well worth exploring. Traditional Italian courtyards are a charming addition to the city and paint a quaint picture of everyday life in Georgia. The doorways and entranceways of historic buildings are equally as captivating. Districts around the old town have also been restored to their former glory with shiny new facades but it is the broken-down exteriors of the back streets that still hold on to the Georgian spirit.
Art Lovers
Tbilisi is a city for art lovers. Whether you want to delve into antique art or fancy contemporary installation, there is something for everyone. The Museum of Modern Art on Rustaveli Avenue has revolving exhibitions and grandiose sculptures in the courtyard.
The Georgian State Museum of Theatre, Music, Cinema, and Choreography is a hidden gem with one of the most captivating private collections in the country. The exhibits are set within stunning halls with frescoes and antique furniture and elaborate detailing. You can view theater costumes, sheet music, paintings, manuscripts, and more amongst the collection.
Colourful street art in a Tbilisi courtyard. Image: Dmitry Rodionov
The streets of Tbilisi have also been transformed into art spaces with giant murals covering many of the old soviet-style cement buildings. There are also small details like statues, ceramic tiles, and Soviet mosaics waiting to be discovered.
Mount Mtatsminda
At night, the Tbilisi TV tower and Mtatsminda ferris wheel light up the skyline. These two attractions are part of Mtatsminda Park, a landscape park on top of Mount Mtatsminda. Hop in the funicular to ride to the top and enjoy the unparalleled views of the city.
On the slope of the mountain, halfway to the top, sits St David’s Church and Mtatsminda Pantheon. Here lie many of Georgia’s most acclaimed writers, poets, historical figures, and artists. Headstones of each grave signify the figures that lay in rest and this necropolis is one of the most unique spots to visit in Tbilisi.
Go to Greenspaces
Tbilisi has a long-term vision of becoming a ‘Green City’ by 2030 and has made many improvements already in the fields of transportation and land use. The city has redeveloped existing parks and added more greenspaces to create environments for fauna and flora to flourish.
Tbilisi has many beautiful parks and gardens. Image: Mostafa Meraji
The National Botanical Gardens of Georgia behind Narikala Fortress are filled with indigenous and exotic plant species and provide almost 100ha of space for more than 4000 species of plants. A river runs through the gardens and ends in a waterfall behind the thermal baths in the Old Town.
Vake Park is another newly renovated space in the Vake district of Tbilisi. The large park features an impressive staircase up to a WW2 memorial halfway up the hill. From the park, you can take a cable car up to Turtle Lake, another picturesque outdoor space with easy hiking trails leading up to the mountain and relaxed walking trails around the lake.
Learn about Georgian History
The regions around the Caucasus Mountains are some of the most ethnically diverse in the world and the second most linguistically varied landscape on the planet. The Tbilisi Open-Air Museum of Ethnography tries to capture this complex culture by showcasing traditional shelters from 14 ethnographic groups. These lodgings have been relocated from their original locations and are not mere modern replicas. The museum preserves traditions like carpet weaving and folk art through interactive displays
National museums should always be on your itinerary when visiting a new country as you get to delve into the furthest history of a region. The Georgian National Museum has a massive collection of archeological artifacts, art from the Middle Ages, ethnographic displays, ceramics, and more. The Soviet Occupation Exhibition Hall also sheds light on the tumultuous past of the USSR and the Russian occupation of Georgia.
The stark structures of the Chronicle of Georgia. Image: Mike Swigunski
The Chronicle of Georgia is a soviet-style monolithic sculpture that was built during the 80s to commemorate Christianity in Georgia. At that point, the religion had been practiced in Georgia for 2000 years and the monument was erected to tell various stories that weave together this history. Biblical tales, folklore of Georgian kings and queens, and Zodiac maps are depicted in bronze reliefs. Altogether there are 16 decorated pillars each reaching 35 metres in the air.
Watch a Show
Throughout Georgian history, the arts have stayed strong, and traditions are still upheld through the theatre. Traditional Georgian dances is one of the culture’s greatest treasures and the combination of powerful choreography and pulsating music deliver a stunning spectacle. Sukhishvili is the country’s most renowned dance-troupe and you can only watch them during a small window in the summer when they perform at Takara, their purpose-built venue.
If you miss this golden opportunity, you can still watch captivating performances by smaller groups at one of the dinner theaters around the city. You will be treated to an extensive spread of Georgian cuisine partnered with an evening of elaborate costumes, exhilarating choreography, and captivating folk singing.
The photogenic Rezo Gabriadze clock tower. Image: Mike Swigunski
The Opera and Ballet Theater is an unmissable structure on Rustavelli Avenue. The yellow and red neo-Moorish exterior is an eye-catching structure, but the interior is even more spectacular. Year-round you can watch opera and ballet performances from some of the most talented performers the world over.
For something a little different, head over to Rezo Gabriadze Theatre in the Old Town. The building is known for its iconic whimsical clock tower on the exterior and here you can watch marionette performances for mature audiences. These shows are dramatic and thought-provoking and often cover themes of war and hardship.
Header image: Daria Volkova
