Talad Noi - Exploring One of Bangkok's Oldest Neighbourhoods
Talad Noi is a historic Bangkok riverside neighbourhood sandwiched between Chinatown and Bangrak and predates the founding of Bangkok. A seemingly ancient area of unique gritty streets, and multicultural heritage, it is distinctly different from other parts of Thailand’s capital.
Quaint, though elegantly ageing, shophouses line the narrow winding streets. Scrap metal machine shops crammed with vehicle engine parts from ground to ceiling, and local people's much-loved homes fill the weaving alleyways. It is as if life goes on unaffected by the burgeoning, forever-growing, modern Bangkok that threatens to engulf it.
Chinese shrines dotted throughout still draw worshipers while long-established food vendors like Ped Toon Jao Tha on Soi Wanit 2 carry on their trade. There are elements of modernity slipping in. Cool cafes and tea parlours, restored and gentrified warehouses given new life as guest houses, long abandoned riverside homes now trendy eateries, and eye-catching street art are taking over lanes to tell local stories.
Talad Noi (also known as Talat Noi), meaning ‘little market’, is best explored on foot or bicycle. Street photographers will be in their element. Before delving into the sights and scenes, you can discover in Talad Noi, let's understand the historical context of this original area of Bangkok.
The Instagramable Chinese Tea Canteen in Talad Noi
The Siam capital of Ayutthaya had fallen and been destroyed by the Burmese in 1767. Those who fled the invading forces established a new capital further down the river at Thonburi on the western banks of the Chao Phraya River. A palace and Wat Arun (Temple of Dawn) were built to signify the new capital.
Just 15 years later, in 1782, King Rama I, having assumed the throne, moved the capital from Thonburi directly across river to Rattanakosin. Ayutthaya's Chinese community, having settled on Rattanakosin, was relocated to neighbouring Samphanthawong, Bangkok's now famous Chinatown. Ayutthaya's displaced Portuguese community received a small parcel of land in Talad Noi, centred around the delightful Holy Rosary Church they constructed.
Talad Noi became Bangkok's first port and where most new immigrants landed. Ethnic groups, including Chinese, Vietnamese, and Khmer, came to live in Talad Noi with the Portuguese, bringing a diversity of ethnicity and religion.
Ultimately the Portuguese established a larger community in Thonburi around the Santa Cruz Church, and Talad Noi's vibe became very much connected to the Chinese community. And so it remains today.
Weatherboard shophouses along Song Wat Road
Talad Noi continued as a centre of shipping trade until port facilities were established downriver in the early 1940s. Forever resourceful, many local workers commenced used car parts businesses which continue today in the Talad Noi sub-area known as ‘Sieng Gong’.
Getting There
There are two easy ways to access Talad Noi using Bangkok's public transport system. From the top or northern end, alight at Hua Lamphong MRT station, Bangkok's underground mass rail transport system. From the southern river end of Talad Noi, Chao Phraya Express Boats have regular services up and down the river. Getting off at Si Phraya Pier puts you beside the Royal Orchid Sheraton Hotel & Towers near the Rivercity Center and ready to start. Another famous Bangkok landmark and shopping centre, ICONSIAM, will be on the opposite side of the river.
Talad Noi's Sights – a Self-guided Walking Tour
Wherever you begin, I recommend starting early in the day as you can easily spend a few hours to a half day or more exploring. This guide starts from Hua Lamphong MRT and works its way through Talad Noi to the river around Si Phraya Pier. If arriving by express boat, then follow the suggested route in reverse.
Wat Traimit (Golden Buddha Temple)
From Hua Lamphong MRT Station, take Exit 1, which brings you out on the busy Rama IV Road. Walk across the bridge over the canal (Khlong) and down Mittaphap Thai-Chinese Road to Wat Traimit (approximately 500 meters). Wat Tramit is home to the 3-metres tall seated golden Buddha statue.
The steps up to the Golden Buddha Temple
Said to weigh 5.5 tonnes and is believed to be the world's largest solid gold Buddha image. Historians believe this holy figure is over 770 years old and originated in the ancient Siam capital of Sukhothai (13-14 century), predating Ayutthaya. Be sure to dress respectfully if you visit this temple.
Chinatown Gate (Odeon Circle)
From Wat Traimit, head the 130 meters to Odeon Circle, more commonly referred to as the Chinatown Gate. Sitting atop a roundabout where Yaowarat, Charoen Krung, and Tri Mit roads intersect, this colourful architectural gate has two crucial inscriptions. At its base is the Chinese inscription meaning "soil" or "earth", and at the top is a word translating to "sky" or "heaven". According to Chinese belief, standing at this exact spot between the two sayings will afford you special powers.
Wat U Phai Rat Bamrung (Chùa Khánh Vân)
Wander south along Charoen Krung Road for about 400 meters crossing Song Wat Road, and you will come to the earliest Vietnamese temple in Thailand, built in the 18th century by early immigrants. Several Kings of the Chakri dynasty had close connections with the Vietnamese community helping each other in several indo-chine regional conflicts. Thus the temple has received Royal Patronage. Keep a lookout for a trendy café and coffee roaster across the road if needing a caffeine fix.
Song Wat Road and Sieng Gong Spare Parts District
From Wat U Phai Rat Bamrung turn into Charoen Krung 20 Alley with its Bagel shop and the themed Cai Yong Café and Hometel that could double as a movie set for olden times Chinese homes. Turn into Soi Yaowarat 1 and wander the 150 meters up to Song Wat Road, passing various auto-part shops, marvelling at the scrap metal and spare parts offerings. You have entered the Sieng Gong (also known as Siang Kong) area.
One of the many engine parts shops in Sieng Gong
At the modern Arbor Café and Cooking Studio, turn down Song Wat Road toward the river, and you will pass the diminutive Sieng Gong Shrine built by the Hokkien Chinese, who have resided in the area since 1871. Look past the roadside shrine for some of the now pastel-coloured original weatherboard shophouses.
Wat Pathum Khongkha Ratchaworawihan
Around 150 metres further along Song Wat Road is Wat Pathum Khongkha Ratchaworawihan (or Wat Pathum Khongkha). This old royal monastery dates to the early years of Rattanakosin (old Bangkok). Built in the Ayutthaya era architectural style, the main features are the large white and gold stupas that dazzle in the sunshine and the ornately decorated doors into the temple.
The temple was a place for royal cremation ceremonies. It was also used as the execution ground for Prince Kraisorn, who committed a rebellion against King Rama III. As was the royal protocol, a sandalwood cudgel to the back of his neck is apparently how he was executed. The stone his head lay on for this beating is said to still reside within the temple complex.
Museum of Puey Ungphakorn and Park
Backtrack a few metres on Song Wat Road and turn onto Phanu Rangsi Alley, where more of the Sieng Gong Spare Parts shops are present. The lane will fork. Keep right and follow it to the end. You will pass a small bright Chinese-style temple on your right. Head through the red steel gateway at the end of the lane, and you will find yourself in a tranquil riverside park with its own local ferry pier.
The entrance to the riverside park and ferry pier
There is also a modern building which, according to the graphics on the outside glass walls, is the Talad Noi Museum. It was closed both times I visited, despite the stated opening hours on the door. Google Maps has it listed as the Museum of Puey Ungphakorn. Despite confusion about the naming of the building, this small park with its giant tree at the centre, terraced lawns and paths, and spectacular riverfront outlook provides great respite and escape.
Hong Sieng Kong
Returning from the park, back onto Phanu Rangsi Alley, take the first right turn (you will pass Timo & Tintin Café), and veer right again into another laneway. You will pass another small, well-maintained Chinese temple on your left and rundown teak timber buildings on your right.
Keep a lookout for Hong Sieng Kong with its blue building front and small red sign. Hong Sieng Kong is an excellent example of gentrification starting to find its way into Talad Noi. It operates as a café and casual dining venue with inside and riverfront seating for relaxation.
Long-time Bangkok antique traders, the Hong Family, purchased three 150-200-year-old rundown Sino-Portuguese buildings on this site a few years back and have restored and connected them to create this venue. Their restoration highlights the original building characteristics and their storied years, including maintaining the original exterior wall held together by ancient creeping fig roots. The vaulted open interior is also ideal for the display of antiques from the family collection.
Expansive riverside seating at Hong Sieng Kong
To thwart people just dropping in to take a few photos and leave, the café has an ordering station as you enter, and you cannot pass further until you have made a purchase. Stop for a coffee, cooling beverage or a bite to eat, as Hong Sieng Kong is worth spending some time exploring and enjoying.
Chow Sue Kong Shrine
The ornate Chow Sue Kong temple is just a few metres from Hong Sieng Kong. Believed to be built in 1804, it is one of the oldest temples for the Hokkien-Chinese community in Talad Noi. Temples of this era were designed to face the river as that was the primary mode of transport, and this house of worship still has its own pier. Chow Sue Kong also plays a role in the annual Vegetarian Festival.
Look inside the temple's various rooms and seek out the statue of fabled Chinese doctor and herbalist Chow Sue Gong with its dark skin, golden robes, and crown. Legend has it that the doctor, for the safety of his patients, always tested his medicinal cures on himself before prescribing them to others. Unfortunately, one particular remedy turned his body black and was fatal.
Photocafe & Photohostel
Step back out of the temple complex, and the lane immediately turns away from the river. Twenty meters in front of you is Photocafe & Photohostel, in the restored 200-plus-year-old Taiyuan building. A liquor warehouse in its original form had fallen into disrepair, and some parts even collapsed until its current owners breathed new life and refurbished glory in the historic structure.
The striking façade of Photocafe and Photohostel
The visually stunning café and connected spaces are an excellent reason to linger for a refreshing drink and snack. Stop to admire the hung images of professional photographers and owners Kars and Joh, and browse their curated gift shop. If photography interests you, one of their photo tours may be a reason to return.
Immediately next door to Photocafe is Riverside Residence, a boutique 8-storey guest house claiming outstanding views of the river. Sunsets from its rooftop bar and lingering over a meal could be an option.
Citizen Tea Canteen is just another few metres along the laneway with its striking orange, black and white chequered shopfront entrance. This artisanal tea house serves and celebrates teas from across Thailand and features the traditional Thai milk tea. There is a distinct art and design feel to this Kopi.
So Heng Tai Mansion
Turning left into Duang Tawan Alley (away from the river), continue past a large spirit tree wrapped in ribbons and right into the next lane, past the abandoned and rusting Fiat 500 on the corner. So Heng Tai Mansion is the next stop along this lane. Built over 200 years ago in the Hokkien-Teochew architectural style is a group of four houses surrounding a large courtyard.
The old entrance to the So Heng Tai Mansion
Descendants of the original migrant Chinese trading families still live on site. They caused controversy a few years back by adding a deep pool in the central courtyard to house a scuba diving school and a café to help raise funds for the ongoing maintenance of the historic buildings.
Baan Rim Naam is hidden in plain sight just a few doors down on the riverside of this lane. A very casual café/bar and pop-up art space in a 200-year-old building shell. Relax on the Thai cushion-style seating while watching the river go by or hang out in the vintage furniture in the rustic garden. Expect DJs and live performances on evenings and weekends.
Talad Noi Street Art and Rong Kueak Shrine
Keep following the lane south, turning away from the river into Soi Chareonkrung (also called Trok San Chao Rong Kueak). Before darting up the road towards the street art, turn towards the river and visit the bright red Chinese-Hakka Rong Kueak Shrine in a large courtyard on the riverbank. Nowadays, the shrine is extremely popular during Chinese New Year.
Local stories suggest the Hakka community was renowned for their steelworks, including horseshoes, so this is where people would come to get their horses shod. Listen out, and you may still hear the metal clang from one of the remaining blacksmiths.
The colourful street art alley in Talad Noi
The concrete walls of this 100-metre-long alley have become a popular canvas for Talad Noi street art. The laneway also has a sponsored photo exhibition of various local photographers on one wall. Around the front of the Mother Roaster coffee shop is where the street art starts. This café in an old teak building is worth checking out. Head past the ground floor's piles of scrap metal and up the narrow stairs for all to be revealed.
Exiting the street art alley, turn right on Soi Wanit 2 for the last few stops.
Marine Department Building and Pier
Although the kingdom had consistent maritime trading with foreign nations since the 17th century, Siam started to collect customs tariffs upon arrival instead of continuing port dues in the 1850s. To help establish this system, Captain John Bush, a British seaman, was appointed as Director General of the newly established Harbour Department. Captain Bush commenced his duties on August 5th 1859 - a date now known and celebrated as the Harbour Department's Founding Day. The location of the current Marine Department was a hub for trading and shipping in those early days. The Neo-classical two-story building at the riverfront pier celebrates this history.
Siam Commercial Bank
Built in 1906 on the Chao Phraya riverbank, the majestic Siam Commercial Bank building was inspired by Beaux-Arts and Neoclassical architecture. It was the kingdom's first locally owned and operated bank and is still a working bank. Set on emerald green lawns, this bank is undoubtedly one of the most picturesque in the city. You can walk around the area and peek inside during opening hours.
Holy Rosary Church (also known as Kalawar Church)
Neighbouring Siam Commercial Bank and just a few minutes from River City, this impressive church was built in 1897 and follows a traditional cruciform floor plan. The Gothic-style arched doors and Roman Catholic stained-glass windows are considered some of the country's most beautiful.
The 125-year-old Holy Rosary Church
Over the years, it has been renovated and repaired to maintain its beauty. However, it is not the original church the Portuguese community built when relocating from the defeated Ayutthaya. Completed in 1787, the original church, called Kalawario at the time, was burnt down.
River City
The multilevel River City centre is the premier destination for art, antiques, decor and design – in Thailand and perhaps Asia. Initially established in 1984 as the go-to antique market and auction house, the modern River City continues to evolve and reinvent itself and now hosts contemporary art shops catering to the tastes of newer generations. Wander the galleries, stores, and exhibition spaces to be inspired by the diversity of art on display.
River City is also a fantastic location for dining, thanks to its riverfront eateries. At the same time, the Pier is the hop-on and off-point for many of the Chao Phraya dinner and sunset river cruises. There are also direct cross-river launches for those wanting to visit ICONSIAM. The complex is also home to Co Van Kessel bike tours, a highly respected bike tour company.
Further attractions, cafes, guest houses, and shrines are dotted throughout this neighbourhood. Just explore, and you'll no doubt find other hidden gems. Talad Noi is a fascinating community, and this unique district of Bangkok is well worth exploring. If you enjoy getting off the beaten path, this may be right up your alley.
All images: © Michael Cullen
