Asia is not often thought of as a destination for snow skiing, but Japan has more than 500 ski resorts and offers skiing experiences that many say are better for older travellers than Europe, Canada or the US, because the resorts are quieter and more focused on relaxation than partying. 

A quiet meal in a local restaurant and a soak in a warm onsen after a day on the slopes is what appeals to me as an older skier and is what has attracted me to Japan in recent years. I’ve skied in many of the mega-resorts in other parts of the world, but now that I’m in my seventies, the appeal of the less crowded and more efficiently organised Japanese ski resorts is hard to beat.

One of the best-known skiing destinations in Japan for foreigners is Niseko in Hokkaido. It’s largely English-speaking, has great facilities and is easy to get around. The village is compact with both western and Japanese restaurants and is relatively easy to reach via a domestic flight from Tokyo to Sapporo, and then a three-hour bus ride to the ski fields.

Niseko has some of the best snow conditions for skiing in Japan, which is why it’s so popular with overseas skiers. There’s a wide range of accommodation from hotels to condominiums and many recommend it for skiers making their first visit to Japan, and especially for older travellers. It’s popular with Australians during their summer, and the large number of Australians holidaying there during the ski season results in some referring to it as ‘Little Australia’.

But that’s not where I have been skiing in recent years. My preferred ski destination is Hakuba, a village in Nagano Prefecture that is set in a picturesque valley in the northern Japanese Alps. It has more of a local feel to it than Niseko. That’s not to say you won’t experience Japanese culture in Niseko, but Hakuba has a slower pace and feels more authentic.

It’s also a well-known ski area because the Hakuba Valley was the site of the downhill events at the 1996 Winter Olympics. The ski jumps that featured so prominently in the television coverage of those winter games are still there in the valley.

During the non-winter months, the Hakuba Valley is a productive farming region, and it retains that rural character through the winter ski season. Many of the lift attendants are local farmers who take up part-time work on the ski fields during the months that they can’t grow crops. The locals are very well natured, and their presence enhances a visit to Hakuba.

I’ve made the trip to Hakuba for four years now and even though I really should try some of the other resorts, the familiarity of the place and the ease of reaching it will probably mean I will continue to ski there. I love the feel of the village and the friendliness of the locals, and the big variety of ski runs around the valley. And the fact that the slopes aren’t crowded is another big plus.

The Hakuba Valley is home to about half a dozen ski areas with around 200 ski runs catering for all levels of skiers from beginners to experts. Happo One is the biggest ski area in the valley and is best for intermediate skiers, but there are some great beginner slopes at nearby Goryu and advanced runs at Hakuba 47 for more experienced skiers. Many of the slopes on the different mountains can be accessed on the one ski ticket.

It’s even easier to reach than Niseko. From Narita airport, a bus takes visitors to Nagano and from there shuttle buses take skiers to the individual ski resort areas. If traveling from Haneda airport, another alternative is a bullet train (Shinkansen) from Tokyo to Nagano.

The rural feel of the area extends to the facilities in the village where small family-run restaurants known as shokudo serve up a range of traditional Japanese dishes, in contrast to some other ski regions where fast food and western restaurants prevail. Echoland is the name of a part of the village where there are several streets of local restaurants. Of course, those who prefer western food will still find plenty of options at the many hotels dotted around the valley.

I usually ski in the spring. The advantage of spring skiing is that it’s warmer and you can usually ski every day, but of course the snow is not as good as in the winter. On the few bad weather days, there are plenty of cultural activities around the valley to enjoy.

I often travel to Japan with a group of friends because that gives you a better opportunity to find someone at your own level to ski with. Most who come with me are in their late 50s to early 70s, but I’ve seen people skiing there who are well into their 80s. One of my friends didn’t start skiing until he was 58 so it’s never too late to learn to ski. Hakuba offers plenty of easy green slopes on which beginners can start.

There are not so many condominiums at Hakuba as there are at Niseko, but I prefer to stay in a hotel anyway. The Hotel Goryukan is my favourite as it has big rooms. Many Japanese hotels have small rooms so it’s always a good idea to check the room dimensions online before booking. The older hotels usually have the larger rooms. Also check that the hotel has its own on-site onsen.

The Hotel Goryukan is rated as a 3-star hotel in Japan but the food and service are more what I would consider to be typical of a 4-star hotel. It’s in a great location within easy walking distance of Happo One and Echoland. The Ridge is another excellent hotel -- but a little more expensive (it’s rated 4-star) -- in the upmarket Wadano district that gets good reviews, but it’s a bit isolated. 

The Hotel Hakuba is 3-star hotel that gets good reviews from overseas travellers, but it’s halfway to the railway station. The Hakuba Springs Hotel is another well-located 3-star hotel, but some people complain about the western breakfasts there. Unless you are intending to eat a Japanese breakfast, it’s wise to check hotel reviews before booking to see what previous guests say about the breakfasts. Personally, I prefer to start the day with a good western breakfast and then eat Japanese food for dinner. 

For those who enjoy an alcoholic tipple with their dinner, the prices at Hakuba are very reasonable, and in many cases cheaper than in western countries. The section of wine in some places is limited, but if you are a beer, whiskey, or sake drinker, you will have nothing to complain about.

I will be heading back to Japan to ski again as soon as Covid travel restrictions allow because I like the less crowded slopes, how all the staff at the hotels and on the transport services are so polite, and how clean everything is. The only downside to skiing in Japan is the signage for those who can’t read Japanese.

The other thing that I enjoy about skiing in Japan is the ability to organise itineraries that include a week or two sightseeing in different parts of Japan before going home. My wife and I have visited Osaka, Kyoto, Nagasaki and Hiroshima using Japan Rail Passes after skiing in Hakuba and we have discovered many interesting places along the way including Mount Fuji, Kanazawa, Takyama and the infamous ‘Piss Alley’ in Tokyo’s Shinjuku district. A ride on the Shinkansen is a must.

And whilst you are in Hakuba or Nagano, do try to make time for an excursion to the Jigokudani Monkey Park to see the snow monkeys bathing in the hot springs there. It’s a sight that you won’t see anywhere else in the world.

If you happen to visit Japan for winter skiing and you are there on the second Monday of January, then you’ll have the bonus of experiencing the national holiday called ‘Coming of Age Day’ when many men and women who have turned 20 in the previous year will walk the streets in traditional Japanese dress. The young women in their colourful kimonos are usually more than happy to pose for photographs with visitors.  

Another day during which you will find women wearing traditional dress is Hinamatsuri, or Girls’ Day, which is celebrated on 3 March each year. If you ski in spring like me, do take time on your way back to enjoy the cherry blossoms which usually start from around mid-March. Known as sakura in Japan, the cherry blossoms are a sight to behold.

All images: © Ross Smith