Over two million people live in Cambodia’s capital, Phnom Penh, a typical bustling Asian metropolis. Accordingly, its history and culture ensure there’s a plethora of things to see and do within proximity of the city centre. Deciding where to begin is possibly your most challenging decision.

Virtually all tours include the big-ticket attractions, from the Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, National Museum, and Killing Fields Museum to Wat Phnom and Central Market.

Because I was joining a river cruise in a few days that included tours to all these sites, I wanted something more bespoke, away from the bustling tourist crowds. A visit to Silk Island, or Koh Dach, looked to be my answer.

The island can be reached by a cruise boat, then bike around its 10-hectare area, tuk tuk or, as I chose, a private half-day tour in a comfortable air-conditioned van with an English-speaking guide. I found and booked Amazing Cambodia Tours through Get Your Guide (US$85).

Sites

Beginning at 9.30am, I was pleasantly surprised when we stopped just a few blocks from my hotel to view Independence Monument, a majestic illustration of Angkorian architecture designed by Vann Molyvann and built in 1958 to mark the liberation of Cambodia from the French.

After strolling further along Neak Banh Teuk Park to the Statue of His Majesty Preah Bat Samdech, we re-joined the van driver who had been keeping up with us on the boulevard.

Continuing along, Sisowath Quay, the guide, Hean, kept me entertained with his running commentary before picking up a Canadian family of four.

A short distance along National Highway 6A and crossing the Japanese bridge, we arrived at Mongkol Serey Temple and Mongkol Serei Kien Khleang Pagoda. Facing the Mekong River 15km north of the city, it’s obvious why it’s commonly called the Golden Temple. Every inch of every building on the site was lathered in rich gold paint that dazzled in the bright sunlight.

The new temple dominated, perched high with grand staircases. Inside, gold statues and lavish paintings adorned the walls and ceiling, depicting the life of Buddha, which our guide meticulously described, as locals sat cross-legged on the floor creating a variety of offerings.

Although not open at the time, the architecture of the original pagoda, said to be over 200 years old, was just as intricate, but the building was more modest size-wise. The main staircase faces the river, with an entranceway flanked by gold figures. Tucked between this pagoda and the river is a shrine engulfed by a huge banyan tree featuring guard-like statues and a gold Buddha. A modest Chinese temple sits nonchalantly nearby. Monks also resided on the site. Seeing many sitting under trees glaring at their mobile phones was sad.

School

Virtually around the corner from the Golden Temple we drove onto a ferry for the short crossing to Koh Dach, or Silk Island. The island exuded the peace and calm of country life, a cohesive village community, making it feel like a million miles away from Phnom Penh’s urban metropolis.

With its unspoilt surroundings, profuse rice fields, tropical fruit plantations, vegetable gardens, stilt houses, and colourful hammocks swinging between the posts underneath, it was easy to see why people chose to live here. Their simple lifestyle provided a reasonable living primarily through fishing, agriculture, and silk weaving, amongst the tranquillity of the countryside, which was close to the convenience of the city, with all its necessities within a stone’s throw.

Children surrounded the van as we pulled into the Koh Dach Primary School. They were on a break and excited to see foreigners, wanting to know where we were from. They loved having their photos taken but didn’t expect anything in return. Not knowing we’d visit a school, I had nothing to give them anyway.

When the bell rang, and they rushed to their various classrooms, I remembered I had a handful of little koala souvenirs in my bag, which were thoroughly coveted.

Silk

Finally, we arrived at what the island is named after — a tour of reportedly the finest silk-weaving workshop in Southeast Asia. While many other artisans producing pottery, woodcarving, and fabric dying reside on the island, the prominent traditional handicraft is silk weaving. Hence, the island is considered Cambodia’s silk centre.

While many weavers produce quality silks under their houses, the main silk weaving centre, named Silk Island, conducts free comprehensive and informative tours that explain and show step-by-step the entire silk process from worm to woven fabric. Approximately a kilometre from the ferry landing, the centre has a row of stilt houses where weavers sit underneath, producing the intricate fabric by hand on wooden looms.

The tour brought back childhood memories of me diligently feeding silkworms mulberry leaves in a shoebox in my bedroom until they fattened and spun their bright golden cocoons. I always wondered how those cocoons became silk. Today, at Silk Island, I finally learned the truth. What an epic process!

Cocoons are collected and boiled until the ultra-soft fibre unravels. Then, they are stretched and spun onto a foot-peddled wooden wheel and later colour-dyed in batches as required.

Watching the weavers produce their magic, again with foot-peddled looms, certainly increased my appreciation for the final product. We walked through the shop at the end of the tour, snapping up a few well-priced bargains.

Visitors and locals can take full-day trips or even stay for a few days on Koh Dach. Beautiful pagodas, such as Sa Maki Kbal Koh and Ampor Phal, are dotted around, and in the island’s north, crystal beaches with thatched-roof shelters line the shores.

After another peaceful ferry crossing and a short 20-minute drive back to Phnom Penh, my half-day tour was complete, and I was back at Anik Palace Hotel, also a peaceful reprieve in the heart of the capital. With a few hours to spare, I relaxed around my hotel’s rooftop pool and bar area before returning to Sisowath Quay for a sunset cruise.

Sunset

Phnom Penh sits idealistically at the intersection of the Mekong, Bassac and Tonle Sap Rivers. The city is perfectly positioned for the many sunset cruises on offer, including ones providing bottomless beer, which I don’t drink, so I finally chose one that didn’t include drinks or food. At $15 the Kanika Boat Sunset Cruise was excellent value.

We were boarding at 4.30pm for a 5pm departure from the Riverside Police Pier on the lower end of Sisowath Quay, which was directly adjacent to Himawari Hotel. When I arrived by tuk-tuk ($10) at 4pm, it was Happy Hour. Sipping a chilled white wine and munching on the peanuts provided, I watched the passing procession on the Quay. It was an idyllic beginning to the sunset cruise.

Once on board and seated on the deck, we motored out to the confluence of the three rivers. The breezy atmosphere and sweeping vistas of the golden sun setting behind the city skyscrapers were magical. You knew you were in one of Southeast Asia’s grandest cities as sampans swept across the gold reflections stretched over the combining murky river waters, trying desperately to touch our boat.

Even the background rhythmical music was tuned to the motion of the gentle waves as staff topped up our drinks and brought a plate of tapas and French cuisines to taste. To make it even more enjoyable, all the food and wine on board was reasonably priced.

As we returned to the pier, the Quay also turned on its brightest night lights. I toasted the panoramic views and a beautiful, relaxing, and rewarding day in the fast-paced, chaotic Asian capital.

All images: © Nannette Holliday