My heart is in my mouth. Motorbikes surround us. There’s no backing out. I’m in the thick of it as a pillion passenger on a Vespa scooter weaving through Ho Chi Minh City’s peak-hour traffic. While the Vietnamese capital’s streets are terrifying to cross in the light of day, tonight is an even more exhilarating adventure.

I’m on an Urban Venture, Saigon Nightlife Foodie Tour, the only optional extra tour on my nine-day CF Mekong New Discovery river cruise from Siem Reap to Ho Chi Minh City, or Saigon, as locals call it. We experienced many other modes of transport and gained different perspectives on a place, like plodding along on an ox cart ride to meet a monk or sliding along in a sampan; scooting, high-octane fuelled, around Vietnam’s biggest city was too tempting to refuse.

Nervous excitement rises as I see the colourful machines and drivers waiting dockside as RV Toum Tiou II pulls into Bach Dang dock on the Saigon River. I’m revving to go just as much as my Vespa’s little engine.

Five cruise passengers join tonight’s tour, and the little bright vermillion, daisy yellow, and cornflower blue machines rest on their stands as Shuichi, the lead driver, describes our evening route and tells us not to wave our arms around.

In minutes, we are in the thick of Saigon’s crazy traffic, zooming along the riverside. The lights, scenery and action zoom past. I’m so comfortable and confident with my driver, Hien, there’s no need to hang onto the grip bar. Instead, I have two hands firmly holding my smartphone, capturing every exhilarating moment.

Ten minutes later, we leave the hectic streets, park on a quiet sidewalk and head for Zion Sky Lounge, 14 floors above. With our crafted cocktail in hand, surrounded by sparkling city lights and serenity from the hustle and bustle below, the purple-lit rooftop nightclub is an ideal mood setter and introduction to our stay in Saigon. Shuichi points out iconic landmarks, including the Museum of Fine Arts, Saigon Square, Bitexco Financial Tower, Saigon Skydeck and where our little ship is docked.

Back on the scooters heading west through heavier traffic, our drivers show their road skills, masterfully zigzagging between cars, trucks, and motorbikes, stopping outside a little corner food store just off the main road.

At Banh Mi Sau Minh, we meet the 99-year-old owner, Sau Minh, who began her business from a little street cart on the same corner. After purchasing the land, she built the five-storey building where her family live, operating the shop on the ground floor. My teeth sink through her renowned banh mi, overflowing with five different pork meats, pate, vegetables, and tangy condiments – her secret recipe – I’m a convert. Dare I say it? It’s the freshest baguette I’ve ever eaten outside of France.

Children, older men playing mah-jong, and families relaxing over dinner on the sidewalk smile and wave as we duck and weave through a maze of back streets. As we zip through Ho Tyi Ky Flower Market, the fragrant aromas are intoxicating, making me feel like a child running through a field of spring blooms.

At Quan Thao Oc, we sit amongst locals along the sidewalk on little metal chairs at a low table, sharing freshly cooked, mouth-watering cheese-covered scallops, mussels soaked in white wine, barbecue prawn sates, rice, steamed vegetables, and a cold drink. The street is buoyant and lively, with similar eateries lining both sides.

Waddling back to the scooters, we have one more stop: Maison Marou Saigon. Will my stomach expand enough to fit in anymore? It can. I can’t resist the rich cocoa and fresh chocolate aromas. The thick, creamy hot chocolate nightcap is soothing and rounds off the evening. As the chocolate samples melt in my mouth, I succumb to purchasing a box of dark chocolate, allowing the adventurous memories to linger longer.  

The evening has flown. Our four-hour escapade is over, and I’m back on RV Toum Tiou II, too excited to sleep. Tonight, we experienced the authentic side of Vietnamese life and sampled some of the best Vietnamese street foods, travelling around the old southern capital on the back of the cutest little Vespas.

Would I do it again? You bet!

Urban Adventure offers several other tours around Saigon and the Mekong Delta on a Vespa, and they’re on my list when I next visit Vietnam.

Images: © Nannette Holliday