My Surprising Sri Lankan Sojourn

Don't let Sri Lanka's 'drop in the ocean' presence fool you. Cocooned by the Indian Ocean, this relatively small (65,610 sq km) island, previously known as Ceylon, is so diverse and packed full of welcoming surprises that during my recent sojourn, I felt like I had multiple holidays in one.

At the southeastern tip of India, Sri Lanka isn't like its nearest neighbour. It's highly individual. As I discovered, it's unlike any other Asian country. Wherever I went around the island paradise, calm prevailed despite its turbulent history.

The nearly 22 million people always wore grins, and their friendliness matched the island's warm weather. Even in the capital, Colombo, I never felt overwhelmed by the hustle and bustle – something I'd never experienced in any other heavily populated country.

My journey began calmly and pleasantly with good, old-fashioned, friendly service and tasteful food aboard my Sri Lankan Airlines flight. Mine was direct from Melbourne, departing at 4.10pm and arriving at Colombo's Bandaranaike International Airport at 10.25pm; my body clock didn't miss a beat.

Appetiser on my Sri Lankan Airlines flight to Colombo.

Sri Lankan Airlines has an excellent global network of other direct flights into Colombo from Asian cities including from Shanghai, Beijing, Guangzhou, Incheon, Tokyo, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Bangkok and Jakarta.

As the airport is an hour's drive from Colombo, I pre-booked the little-known White Villa Airport Transit Hotel for my brief overnight stay. Don't let the name fool you; it's a home with multiple spacious, self-contained ensuite rooms, reminding me of the early days of Bali tourism. A complimentary breakfast and airport transfer were included.

The following morning, I was up early, excited about spending the next week at Sri Lanka's three top luxurious resorts before venturing back to the capital for a four-night stay in one of its best hotels.

A smile from a porter at my first Resplendent Ceylon hotel.

Merrill J. Fernando, the founder of Dilmah Tea, conceived the lavish Resplendent Ceylon resort hotels. His first, Ceylon Tea Trails, perched at 1,250 metres in Sri Lanka's central highlands, opened in 2005. The second, Cape Weligama, opened in 2014 and hugs the island's soaring southern cliffs near Galle overlooking the rolling Indian Ocean surf below. Followed by the Wild Coast Tented Lodge in the country's Yala National Park wilderness and fronting the wild southeastern coast in 2017. These exclusive resorts were to be my home for the next week.

They are the only Relais & Chateaux resorts in Sri Lanka, offering much more than mere luxury. Each is a unique, distinctive stay with various authentic experiences that match the land they sit on. Each is purpose-driven, supporting Dilmah's MJF charitable foundation, environmental sustainability, biodiversity conservation, and positive impact program.

Ceylon Tea Trails

My Resplendent Ceylon driver, Susil, was waiting before the appointed 8.00am pick-up time to take me to the first of my mini holidays at Ceylon Tea Trails in the UNESCO World Heritage listed central highlands.

The four-hour drive from Colombo was mostly on winding mountain roads, passing through quaint villages and lush countryside. Eventually the road, clinging precariously to the verdant tea-covered mountainside, narrowed to one vehicle width as we reached my first stay, Norwood Bungalow, one of five luxuriously redesigned historical tea planter's bungalows that make up Ceylon Tea Trails at Bogawantalawa, near Hatton.

Ceylon Tea Trails covers 2,000 hectares. Each bungalow contains five, or six, in the case of Norwood, stately bedrooms and grand bathrooms. There is also a regal sitting room, inside and outside dining areas, a lounge room, and a library. The surrounding spectacular gardens and sparkling swimming pool encourage you to stop and literally smell the roses and crisp mountain air.

Each bungalow effortlessly blends the past and present. Dunkeld, Castlereagh, and Summerville have peaceful views over Lake Castlereagh, where the seaplanes land if you'd rather fly in than take the long and winding road. Tientsin and Norwood are nestled higher up, amongst the emerald-covered mountains and steep tea plantations.

The Andrews bedroom in the Norwood Bungalow.

On arrival, I felt like royalty as my personal silver-sarong-clad butler and executive chef greeted me. There are no printed menus here, either. My chef, Nuwan, discussed and planned all my daily gourmet meals every morning.

Here, you can do as little or as much as you like, from relaxing poolside, playing tennis, croquet, and billiards to reading old and new books in the library or languishing over a classic English afternoon tea. For the more energetic, there is kayaking on the lake, hiking, or mountain biking on the trails. But Bernard's narrative during the guided Dunkeld Tea Factory Tour and tea tasting gave me a new appreciation for tea, especially Dilmah teas, which are still handpicked.

Two days later, I reluctantly said goodbye to the attentive staff and picturesque surroundings for Susil to drive me to Wild Coast Tented Lodge, snuggled amongst the jungles of Yala National Park and facing the unruly Indian Ocean on the southeastern coast. Depending on how often your driver stops, the route is five to six hours, again on a mostly winding road. However, there was so much to see along this section that I enjoyed the numerous stops.

My route passed by the Hakgala Botanical Gardens near Nuwara Eliya.

The steep countryside is home to many gushing waterfalls. Outside Hatton, Devon and St Claire waterfalls there are convenient roadside stops. Nearing Nuwara Eliya, a stone wall announcing Lover's Leap caught my eye. I mused that the other side of the road wasn't steep enough for people to want to jump off before discovering the path behind the stone wall that leads to a 30-metre waterfall. Romantic legend has it that young lovers jumped here, wishing to die together rather than be apart. Another path leads to Muniyandi Temple, which overlooks the falls and keeps the lovers safe.

While Nuwara Eliya isn't considered a tourist town, many points of interest surround it. I would have loved a few days here to explore more, especially after enjoying a personalised tour of the 200-year-old Elizabethan-style Grand Hotel and all its lavish rooms, hidden bars, nooks, and crannies, which whet my appetite for more. At around US$200 a night, I thought it was excellent value.

The artificial Lake Gregory at Nuwara Eliya fits right in with the natural lush landscape, rolling hillsides, and vegetable gardens in the valleys, unlike the English-manicured Hakgala Botanical Gardens, of stark contrast 4 km outside the town. It's popular with locals, though, even with its Rs1500 entry fee and additional costs for taking certain photos.

The lavish 200-year-old Grand Hotel in Nuwara Eliya.

Ella was a hive of activity, with many tourists wandering the streets. Tuk-tuks were lined up, ready to take those willing to go to the Instagram-famous Nine Arch Bridge for the hour-round journey at Rs3,500. Further along, the cascading Kital, Kuda Ravana and Diyaluma waterfalls were just as tourist bound. I later learned that this side of the island, between Kandy and Ella, is extremely popular with backpackers.

The last 45 minutes of the drive is on a flat, almost straight road. Two things surprised me: the surrounding dense Muslim-populated towns and roadside stalls selling large peacock feathers. Susil informed me that the latter only occurs in this region. The birds are purposely raised for the feathers. I was horrified and upset. While keeping or selling peacock plumes is illegal in the West, they are considered lucky and said to protect you from evil in the East.

Wild Coast Tented Lodge

A large tree lying across the road concerned me on arrival at Wild Coast Tented Lodge until it started to rise, and I saw the guard at the side. How inventive. It was the first of many ingenious design features at this sumptuous safari camp that blends perfectly with the surrounding jungle.

The aesthetically designed 28 white, air-conditioned canvas cocoon accommodations complement nature and, from the air, look like the granite boulders along the beach. They're also set in the shape of a leopard's paw print, far enough apart that I can't see my neighbours, only my private plunge pool and timber deck overlooking a waterhole where native animals pause, oblivious to my spying.

The interior has vaulted ceilings, exuding luxury and romance. The rich tan leather camp-style furniture and massive four-poster bed give an expedition-chic feel, but the highlight is the centrally positioned leopard claw-paw copper bath at the rear. Between my rejuvenating spa treatment, curry cooking class, seaside lantern-lit evening dinner, and delicate English afternoon tea, I enjoyed many bubble baths and leisurely wines in it, while surveying the wilderness outside.

Every evening, guests mingle for sundowners as waves crash symphonically over the enormous boulders and the sky fades from azure to golden pink and deep navy. After dark, you know you're cossetted in the Sri Lankan wilderness, especially when a staff member is assigned to accompany you everywhere outside. This only highlights the main activity at Wild Coast – a three-hour morning or afternoon game park safari. Each time has its own charm.

Guests relax for sundowners at the Wild Coast Tented Lodge.

Covering 979 sq km, Yala National Park is Sri Lanka's second largest. It reportedly has the highest concentration of leopards globally. While I didn't see a leopard on either of my safaris, I rejoiced in the beauty of the countryside, the wild elephant families, sloth bears, water buffalo, spotted deer, white-breasted sea eagles, peacocks and more.

The safari drive ventures through many habitats, including jungle, semi-arid scrublands, grassy plains, scenic coastal lagoons, and even scattered historical ruins and artifacts. Each drive was equally as good as the various African safaris I've been on. Guests on safaris on either side of mine did encounter leopards.

Cape Weligama

Three days later, my new Resplendent driver, Susantha, took me further south to Sri Lanka's surf coast and Cape Weligama. The drive was mainly on a Chinese-constructed expressway with rice paddies and fruit farms on either side. I was surprised by the absence of other vehicles, but with a toll of Rs700 to 1000, it's expensive for the average Sri Lankan.

I'm not a surfer or a laze-on-the-beach person, but there was still plenty to occupy my time during my two-night stay at Cape Weligama. From soaking up the rolling sea views over breakfast and lunch in the Ocean Terrace Restaurant, some pampering in the spa, to a cocktail mixology class where taste-testing the two tropical cocktails is a must.

I also enjoyed a sunset dinner overlooking the rugged headland at Lookout Blue and relaxing in my villa's private garden-enclosed swimming pool and lazing beside the adults-only, cliffside half-moon infinity pool that blended effortlessly with the 180-degree cerulean sea and sky vista.

Thilina, the Surf Bar manager, surprised me one evening with his unique arrack masterclass. It was a rare opportunity to appreciate the island nation's three arracks. Arrack is like whiskey but naturally distilled from coconut flowers. Ceylon Arrack was the top of the range, and while smooth, my preference remains the second, the Vat 9 Family Reserve.

My spacious and well-appointed villa bedroom at Cape Weligama.

The highlight of my stay here was a seven-course gourmet dinner cooked in front of me by executive sous chef Ishara Wijesinghe at Tableau. The entire meal was exquisite and melt-in-your-mouth. Think zucchini-wrapped crab mousse, butter-poached lobster tail freshly plucked from the sea, and Sri Lankan lagoon prawns atop tender pink beef fillet strips. My mind and stomach were in gastronomic heaven. Thankfully, my villa was huge enough for me to undertake several laps around it before sinking into the supersoft king-size bed.

Within a stone's throw of the resort, you can stroll the daily roadside fish market stalls, go blue whale watching, or check out the nearby towns of Weligama and Galle.

After two wonderfully jampacked days at Cape Weligama, Susantha drove me to my hotel in Colombo.

Colossal Colombo

I now had four fabulous days exploring Colombo. Radisson Colombo was my home. Positioned on Marine Drive overlooking the Indian Ocean, I watched occasional storms roll in, and cargo ships come and go in the distance from my room, along with city views behind us from On 14, the hotel's comfortable rooftop lounge, bar, restaurant, and pool area.

Sunset view of Colombo from the Virticle rooftop bar.

George Paul and his team at Sargia Sri Lanka curated my Colombo stay and days. Their local knowledge and selection of experiences created memories for me beyond any expectations. They certainly lived up to their byline, 'elevating journeys beyond imagination'. By using a reliable local company that connects with locals to provide in-depth, immersive and authentic experiences, the money stays within the community and country too.

My evening tour of Colombo was aptly named 'Colombo Bling'. It included many significant sites, from BMICH (Bandaranaike Memorial International), Independence Square, Viharamahadevi Park, Colombo Town Hall, Moors Cricket Ground, Gangarama Temple, and the Presidential Secretariat to street art galleries, One Galle Face, Galle Face Green, the Dutch Hospital shopping precinct, and Virticle by Jetwing's stunning rooftop bar, toasting the golden sun sinking into the sea as the capital twinkled its welcome.

My evening was capped off with a succulent dinner at the Ministry of Crab in the capital's repurposed 400-year-old historic Dutch Hospital building. You won't find any frozen crab in the old mortuary section. Ministry of Crab is a multi-award-winning restaurant renowned for the best crab meals globally, and I can vouch for that.

The Red Mosque was one of the highlights of the city tour.

Two of George's Sargia team members took me on a tuk-tuk adventure around Colombo the following day. Sachin and Shenal even went above and beyond when they climbed all 258 stairs to take photos and videos inside the 11-storey-high Sambodhi Pagoda Temple for me. I feigned the hot weather, but truthfully, their legs were younger than mine!

Highlights around the city included the Colombo Port Maritime Museum, Colombo Galbokka Lighthouse, McKinnon Building at Colombo Fort, Khan Clock Tower, and the Red Mosque (Jami-Ul-Afar Mosque). Built in 1908, it reminded me of a miniature Saint Basil's Cathedral in Moscow's Red Square.

We walked through Pettah Fresh Market and sampled juicy mango, saw Kayman's Gate Dutch bell tower, the 19th-century Sammangodu Sri Kathirvelayutha Swamy Kovil, and the various transport through the ages beside the little-known old Town Hall in Pettah. A special guided tour upstairs in the old Town Hall by caretaker Jaya Sakara and signing a book in the meeting room, set with 15 wax figures in period dress as it was during their final meeting, was surreal. Between 1873 and 1924, the building was the municipal headquarters before being moved to the current Town Hall in 1925. He also showed me several original maps of Colombo from 1785.

Signing the visitors book in the old Town Hall’s meeting room.

Another down-to-earth insight was being welcomed into the two-room house of a family in the Sri Siva Subramani Swami Temple housing complex and the Sri Siva Subramani Swami Temple on Slave Island, with its 82-foot tower and intricate, softly coloured Hindu deities.

Sri Lanka's oldest Protestant church, the Christian Reform Church, built in 1642, was equally impressive. It had the oldest organ in Sri Lanka and the graves of five Dutch Governors, plus many who died during the plague inside.

St. Peter's Church, Sri Lanka's oldest continuously functioning church at Colombo Fort, is plain and simple compared to the Christian Reform Church, but it is nonetheless worthy of a visit. It is next to the Grand Oriental Hotel, where we relaxed over drinks and a buffet dinner with port views.

A guitarist entertained us on our Negombo Lagoon sunset cruise.

On my final night, I boarded The Float Negombo for a sunset cruise across Negombo Lagoon up the estuary, passing the sea entrance amidst an array of birdlife and colourful fishing boats, both large and small, along the way. An hour later, we anchored at a small mangrove island where a couple of high tables covered in black tablecloths stood like guards awaiting our arrival. A solo guitarist strummed delightful tunes as we waded in ankle-high cool water and toasted the sunset sinking behind us, while at another table, our chef whipped up freshly cooked seafood snacks. It was the idyllic ending to my Sri Lankan sojourn.

While I saw and learned so much, I knew we had barely scratched the surface of what Colombo, or even Sri Lanka, has to offer – both day and night. It's definitely an eclectic mix of old and new, with a distinctive character.

Sri Lanka is a warm and welcoming country where the people are eager and happy to share their homes, food, and lifestyle with you. The vibrant richness of the food and diverse cultural experiences shone throughout each of my unique luxury journeys. None had anything to do with my linen's thread count or the bathroom's quality amenities. Each delivered a purpose-driven, environmental experience where I was completely immersed in the destination.

My travels became even more meaningful and rewarding, knowing that some of the profits go directly to the locals involved. In the case of the Resplendent Resorts, 15% of Dilmah tea sales and resorts support humanity through the work of the MJF Charitable Foundation and Dilmah Conservation, which funds and manages over 70 projects in 15 locations across Sri Lanka.