It’s a dreamy landscape of breathtaking grandeur, a maze of jewel-like towering emerald islands, with grottos, caves and crystalised champagne-sandy coves engulfed by aquamarine waters. She is captivating and alluring. Everyone who sets eyes on her beauty immediately falls in love.

Like everyone else, I had to see if the hype was worth it. 

Yes. I too, was hooked. My mouth was a gape, staring out the vast windows of our private motorboat. I was in awe of Ha Long Bay’s mesmerising natural beauty. I was under her spell.

I’m being ferried from the No.11 departure lounge at Tuan Chau International Port, Ha Long, Quang Ninh, Vietnam, to my Aqua of the Seas cruise boat for a two-day, one-night stay amongst this remarkable and unusual-looking limestone karst landscape. 

As thousands before me, I can’t stop snapping away at every angle of the passing craggy jade towers. Ha Long Bay is possibly the most photographed place in Vietnam. It’s easy to see why everyone, from geologists and scientists to artists and tourists want to come here.

Founded and named by the French in 1883, Ha Long Bay’s geological formation began in the Tonkin Sea, near the Chinese border, over 500 million years ago. Its over 1,600 unique limestone islands, most uninhabited, eventually became UNESCO World Heritage-listed in 1994 and one of the world’s new seven natural wonders in 2011. 

Strangely, Ha Long in Vietnamese means ‘descending dragon’, and dragons are prominent in Vietnamese culture. Legend says a dragon settled in Ha Long Bay, and her children at nearby Bai Tu Long after defending the Vietnamese people from invaders.

Twenty minutes later, we’re docking beside our 5-star luxury super yacht, where I’m welcomed aboard by the fabulously creative, all-singing, all-dancing crew as they hand us a refreshing non-alcoholic cocktail and cold flannel before leading us into the restaurant for lunch.

Lunch is no small affair either. Everything I want and more lay on the central buffet. The delicious aromas wafting from the various Vietnamese and Western dishes were too tempting. So was the lip-licking bottle of French red I ordered, which the smiling staff produced again at dinner. All was slowly devoured while taking in the vast views of the surrounding nature at my window seat table. 

After being introduced to the captain and crew, our room keys were handed out. It was time to unpack and change, ready for kayaking in an hour.

Well, I wasn’t prepared for the glamour, size, facilities, or views from my room. I was in love all over again.

I could’ve held a ball or entertained at least 20 people in my room! Sinking into the ultra-cloud-soft oversized king bed, adorned on either side by an antique telephone and Ming bedside lamps, I allowed those majestic natural views through the floor-to-ceiling windows to absorb my soul. 

A private teak balcony and oval bath with the same views and a massive walk-in shower in my bathroom sealed the deal. I felt like royalty. I was in seventh heaven. I didn’t want to leave. Ever.

The four-decked, steel Aqua of the Seas has 30 luxury cabins, a reception, two restaurants, bars, a reading area, an outdoor pool, jacuzzi, gym, and a spa treatment room. It’s a shame I didn’t have time for a massage; we were heading to a private beach cove for some relaxing kayaking and a closer appreciation of this pristine environment.

Surrounded by Bai Tu Long Bay in the northeast, Cat Ba Archipelago in the southwest, and Lan Ha Bay in the south, Ha Long Bay covers an area of 1,553km sq. The core bay area is 334km sq. While there are a lot (and I mean lots) of cruise boats around the bay, each has its own area for activities and times in the area are strictly controlled by The United Nations Development Association. So, we’re only mixing with the people from our boat in our own patch of paradise.

Paddling around the peaceful, calm waters and under rocky ledges of Tra Bau Island in Lan Ha Bay, the sheer vastness is overwhelming. It gives me goosebumps, and they’re not from the cooler, overcast weather. It’s spiritual. Only my kayak and oar slicing the translucent water break the silence.

Happy hour is a few very happy hours on the back pool deck. The drinks aren’t just discounted. A super special buy two and get one free deal with snacks is included. It’s the perfect way to mingle with other guests and soak up the sunset.

Just as everyone’s relaxed, the staff set up the spring roll cooking class. It’s all hands-on deck. Between mishaps and laughter, we’re busy patting, spreading, filling, rolling, and stacking our spring roll creations on a plate for cooking and eventually devouring.

Dinner was a lavish 4-course Vietnamese extravaganza orchestrated by the crew voicing their dance and musical talents for us between courses.

The golden sunrise view greeting added a smile to my heart. It would be ideal if every day began like this. Reluctantly extracting myself from my cosy bed, the Tai Chi session on the sundeck allowed for further peaceful indulgence, immersing myself in the bay’s simplest beauty and tranquillity.

After a deliciously fresh breakfast, we transferred to Cat Ba Island and our waiting bus. The 20-minute ride provided glimpses of quaint, colourful villages and thick, lush, verdant jungle hillside scape, taking us into the island’s largest valley, Trung Trang, within Cat Ba National Park.

Two kilometres north of Hospital Cave, we’re dropped at the roadside entrance of the 300m multi-chambered, limestone Trung Trang Cave. Several groups surround the information boards, but our guide bypasses these so we can stroll uninterrupted through the cave with time to pause and absorb their unique and fascinating limestone stalks, pillars, stalagmites, stalactites, and surrounding mountainside views from the hidden grottos. There are over 90 steps to the expansive 127m entrance and its 1,400m of galleries.

Trung Trang Cave is the third-largest limestone cave system in the world and Vietnam’s largest cave. It’s culturally, historically, and ecologically significant to the Vietnamese. Discovered and named by the French in 1885, Grotte du Trung Trang was a popular attraction until the Vietnam War. During the war, it became a Naval Headquarters and provided a haven with fresh water for soldiers. Today, the water tank, meeting and activity rooms can be viewed by visitors.

The cave is also home to many birds, insects, reptiles, and bats (why it was previously known as the Bat Cave). Even the endangered Cat Ba Langur, Cat Ba Tiger Gecko, Southern Serows, Giant Black Squirrels, and Asian Small-clawed Otter call it home.

After another sumptuous leisurely buffet brunch back on our floating royal palace, sadly, it’s farewell time not just to the outstanding crew but to this wonderous, dreamy, worldly seascape. The allure of this spectacular natural scenery is real. 

I savour every towering viridescent island and karst on our 30-minute private motorboat ride back to Tuan Chau Marina, vowing to return during the drier months of March, April, September or October for a longer royal stay amongst the surrealist magical backdrop. 

Ha Long Bay is a region not to be missed. Doing it in style is the pinnacle.

The writer travelled to Ha Long Bay on a public bus (US$13) from Ninh Binh (an inland Ha Long Bay, 222km south) and after the cruise to Hanoi (170km west) on the Aqua of the Seas private minibus (US$30). Both services are door-to-door, with air-conditioning and wifi on board.

Header image: © Nguyen Quang Ngoc Tonkin. Happy hour cocktails: © Marlene Scicluna.

All other images: © Nannette Holliday.