The magnificence of Turkey has long been underplayed but the country has really come into its own as a top travel destination in recent years. With a history stretching back thousands of years and vast landscapes still untouched, Turkey truly is a remarkable country.

But its sheer size makes it difficult to manoeuvre around with ease. Many visitors are left to choose between a whirlwind time in Istanbul and a quick weekend trip to Cappadocia or a Mediterranean getaway with a side trip to historic ruins. That’s not even mentioning the in-and-out day tours that feel more like a tourist sausage factory.

What if I told you there was a better way: A self-drive road trip through Turkey is the most amazing adventure you can embark on! I am an avid driver and try to take on long and challenging drives wherever I go, and much to my disappointment, this was underwhelmingly easy.

I was half expecting arid broken roads, tumbleweed blowing past, and desolate gas stations with a number plate serving as the lavatory keychain. Instead, I was met with immaculate six-lane highways, direct routes, and massive convenience stops with, wait for it, Starbucks!

Why should I drive through Turkey? Simply put, why not? The infrastructure of Turkish roads has undergone massive upgrades and not nearly enough people are taking advantage of this. For the most part, these highways were empty even though they drive directly from one major city to the next. There are tons of rest stops and the signage is clear and fool-proof.

Turkey has no shortage of tour options for travellers of every shape and size, but they are still just that, tours. Impersonal, rushed, and expensive. English is widely spoken across Turkey and even in remote areas, people were very willing to phone a friend for help.

Doing a self-drive tour through Turkey is the only way you can truly enjoy the full scope of the country’s magnificent sights. Take your time getting from point A to point B and beat the crowds by getting to top attractions outside of peak times.

What Will You See?

The most notable attractions of Turkey are located on the west coast and through the central Anatolian regions. Istanbul sits in the far northwestern corner of the country and will be the first and last stop on your trip.

To the southeast of Istanbul, you will be treated to karst sandstone landscapes and orange skies filled with hot-air balloons. The west coast of Turkey is an underrated gem and there will never be enough time to appreciate the laid-back Mediterranean atmosphere that reigns supreme.

To fit all the major attractions of central and western Turkey into a trip, most people opt to fly from one city to the next. It is the most convenient but if you consider flight time along with airport wait times, flight costs, airport transfer costs, and the cost of tours on the ground, you are much better off driving.

How to Rent a Car in Turkey

The rental process is very easy in Turkey. Gone are the days of big names like Avis and Hertz as the internet now connects you with smaller dealerships offering you customisable service at a fraction of the cost. MyLocalRent is akin to AirBnB, but for car rentals. You are able to browse a massive array of cars from smaller rental agents to find something that perfectly suits your budget.

I rented a Škoda sedan that was delivered to the airport and picked up from a meeting point of my choosing. The car came with unlimited mileage and a reasonable deposit that I received back in cash. The rental agents are extremely helpful and are willing to communicate over text message to give you exact instructions every step of the way.

We met at the arrival gates, signed paperwork outside the airport, and I went on my merry way. It only cost me around US$30 per day and the petrol price in Turkey isn’t extortionate either, making this an exceedingly cost-effective trip.

I had 10 days to complete my journey through Turkey and although it was enough time to hit the major sights, I would suggest you add more days if you can, to sit back in places and enjoy the sincere hospitality that Turkey is known for.

Here is what I consider to be the best itinerary for a road trip through western Turkey. The loop to and from Istanbul in this itinerary covers the most notable destinations in Turkey including Pamukkale, Ephesus, and Ankara:

Leg 1: Istanbul to Ankara (5 hours)

Start your drive from Istanbul soon after your arrival. The traffic and driving culture in Istanbul are worlds removed from the rest of the country and seeing this up close might give you cold feet. I assure you, once you leave the city limits the roads are uncluttered and drivers are rule-abiding and considerate.

Ankara is the capital of Turkey, a sprawling concrete jungle of apartments and industry. It rises like an oasis from the desert and creeps up on you from nowhere. Ankara is often left out of itineraries, but the city has two remarkable attractions that are well worth a visit for history buffs. The first, the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, is the best place to fully appreciate the pre-classical history of Anatolia.

A more modern attraction is Atatürk’s Mausoleum. The lavish marble tomb is on a plaza that is striking and grand. Visit the museum complex that tells the story of Turkey’s War of Independence and watch the setting sun paint the sky vivid shades of blue and orange behind the imposing building.

Leg 2: Ankara to Cappadocia (3 hours)

The second leg is shorter and much more beautiful than the first day. The landscape starts changing as you approach the arid region of Cappadocia. Many people make the mistake of thinking ‘Cappadocia’ is the destination, but it is, in fact, a region with many villages dotted across the landscape.

Göreme is the most popular village and should be your first stop. Here you should stay in a cave hotel to get the full immersive experience. Rooms are carved in stone spires, clad with Turkish carpets and lanterns. The region is littered with stone formations and cave cities carved into the sheer rock faces thousands of years ago.

Göreme is a walkable town with many restaurants and shops in the main streets but when your alarm goes off for a 4 am hot-air balloon session you will be very thankful for your own car. You are not guaranteed to see the balloons every day and they can be cancelled because of wind or overcast weather. So, the safest option is to book a few nights in the region to guarantee a sighting or ride. I stayed two nights and was lucky to see them both days, but the spellbinding nature of Cappadocia can keep you occupied for many more days on end – so don’t rush away if you have the time!

The largest attraction here is the Göreme Open Air Museum. The museum is sprawled over a few different locations that are all included in one ticket. They aren’t all within walking distance of the town so having your own car will come in especially handy here.

The underground cities of Kaymaklı and Derinkuyu are about 30 minutes from Göreme but are an unmissable addition to your visit. These vast underground cities were occupied centuries ago by whole communities of thousands of Turks. The narrow tunnels aren’t for the faint of heart but if close spaces don’t phase you, it is a must.

But let’s get serious; seeing the hot-air balloons rising with the sun is what you have really come here for. If you choose to take a ride on the balloons, I still suggest that you have a few buffer days in case your flight gets cancelled and to see them from the ground too.

The hill above Göreme is one of the most popular places to watch the balloons from. It gives you a view of different valleys and it is directly on the flight path. Balloons filled with smiling faces soar just a metre or two over your head and rise in their hundreds from valleys and hilltops around this point.

If you have many days to watch the balloons, I still suggest you start with this hilltop and decide on alternative spots for the following days. But see them as many times as you can, this sight never gets boring!

Leg 3: Cappadocia to Konya (3 hours)

After seeing the balloons one last time and eating your body weight in Turkish breakfast treats, set off westwards towards Konya. This stop is home to people from the Sufi order who are best known for their deeply spiritual Whirling Dervish dance.

Try and coordinate your arrival here for a Thursday if you are travelling in the summer or on Saturdays during other times of the year. You can catch a free performance at the Mevlâna Museum's outdoor theatre or the cultural centre during other times.

The Mevlâna Museum is also dedicated to Sufism and its 13th-century leader, Mevlâna Celaleddin Rum, was laid to rest within its confines. If you have the time it is well worth exploring the beauty of Seljuk enamel tile work at the Karatay Tile Works Museum. This intricate art form is all but lost in Turkey and you should find any excuse to admire the places where it has been restored.

Leg 4: Konya to Pamukkale (5 hours)

Pamukkale lies just outside the city of Denizli and this is one of the more peculiar stops on your trip. Pamukkale translates to ‘cotton castles’ in Turkish and there is no more apt way to describe them. The billowing white travertines spill over the side of a cliff forming a one-of-a-kind scene.

This location is a bit of a love-hate situation. Many people are underwhelmed when they finally lay their eyes on the travertines as images on the web are very misleading. But there are a few things you should know to avoid disappointment.

Firstly, there are only about six pools you can reach, and two smaller sections that have water in them, but you are not allowed to enter those areas. The uppermost dry areas have a lot of debris in them and aren’t as white as you might expect. But the travertine section is much larger than the tourist-flooded area you see in the pictures. Take your time to walk the length and breadth of the area to see the grandeur of it all.

The gates open at 6 am and you should be there at 5.45 am to be first through the gates. Walk straight to the travertines to see them free of people. You have to take your shoes off and the first section can be tough on your feet. The travertines only take on their azure look once the sun is almost directly above you, so return to this spot later in the day to admire them again from above and see their full blue brilliance.

You will spend most of your day here walking among the impressive ruins of Hierapolis. Most people rush past this section on their way to Cleopatra’s pool but you are on your own clock so take your time and admire the grandeur of the amphitheatre and the vast network of buildings that remain standing.

Cleopatra’s pool is a weird one. The pool has been heavily commercialised but if you can get past this fact, it is a lovely place to float among ruins in mild warm spring water. It is not included in your ticket price but you do get locker access if you buy a ticket to the pool so you can store your swimsuits while you explore the area.

Leg 5: Pamukkale to Kuşadası (3 hours)

The Mediterranean is calling! There are tons of idyllic places to stay along the coast like Izmir and Bodrum, but I settled on Kuşadası. It is the closest city to the biblical city of Ephesus and directly west of Pamukkale.

The city is a popular stop for cruise ships but it is just small enough to keep its charm and character once the tourists retire to the confines of the ship. Watching the sun set behind Kuşadası castle is a stunning scene, the perfect end to a day spent splashing in the warm clear waters of the Mediterranean coast. 

Ephesus is an ancient city that sits in the modern-day city of Selçuk. Aim to be at the gates when they open at 8 am and head straight to the Library of Ephesus. Don’t stop to see the smaller sites as the road is in and back and you can see them all on the way out. The massive library gates are the highlight of the city and you will want to see it unimpeded by selfie sticks and tour guides. 

The main Ephesus complex isn’t the only place to see. Next door is the Cave of the Seven Sleepers and in the town of Selçuk is the Ephesus Archeological Museum. The Museum has some truly spectacular treasures from the surrounding excavations.

Try to spend multiple days on the coast if you can. The beaches are as good as any other Mediterranean hotspots like Greece or Cyprus so make the most of the low-cost and ease of access while you are here.

Leg 6: Kuşadası to Istanbul (6 hours)

The last leg of your trip will take you back to where it all started. If you want one last adventure you can make a detour to Bandirma and take the ferry back to Istanbul, but I just put the pedal to the metal and drove back to the big city.

Once you get to Istanbul, the safest option is to take your car directly back to the rental agent. The risks of driving in the city are just too great. Drivers enjoy speeding and swerving and the highway systems are vast and complex. Drop off your car and take a taxi to your accommodation. From there you can use public transport and taxis to reach various points in Istanbul.

Undertaking this drive might seem daunting but it is a rewarding and unforgettable experience. The luxury of taking your time, being first at attractions, and having comfortable transport at your fingertips simply can’t be substituted and your experience will be improved tenfold with this approach.

Header image: © Louise Pieterse