When I travel, I love fully immersing myself in the destination’s offerings. However, that doesn’t mean sleeping on the ground or sharing bathroom facilities after an adventurous day (if I don’t have to).

A quality bed, soft pillow, and well-appointed ensuite with a hot shower are paramount, especially now, in my later years.

So, naturally, my friends were aghast that I was heading to Timor-Leste. For two weeks, no less. They openly said only backpacker-style accommodation was available and I wouldn’t survive.

To their surprise, I survived and will go back! I enjoyed adventurous days, a fabulous array of delicious healthy food, and spacious, comfortable accommodations.

Aerial view of Dili, capital of Timor-Leste — Flying into Dili, the capital of Timor-Leste.

Timor-Leste is one of the least-travelled Southeast Asian countries. Reminiscent of its people with open arms, the capital, Dili, stretches along the coastline from the airport to Cristo Rei statue at Cape Fatucama.

Like the crystal, turquoise waves lapping the champagne-sandy shores, it has a chill vibe, a slow, relaxed pace, vibrant and well-documented history, and superbly fascinating culture, all wrapped up in its friendly, welcoming people.

As a young country that only gained independence in 2002, tourism is a fledgling industry, and their accommodation offerings, till recently, have been fundamental.

While you won’t find Fiji-style resorts or a mini-Bali in the making (thankfully), the standards have grown and are still evolving to meet increasing visitor needs. Timor-Leste and the Timorese are unique, and their slice of paradise has many distinctive attributes that they are preserving.

Upmarket accommodation at Palm Spring Estate in Dili.

I was pleasantly surprised by the handful of charming and comfortable 3-, 4-, and 5-star accommodations (yes, you read it correctly: 5-star) I discovered. Depending on your personal needs, these accommodations provide luxury and comfort for the upmarket traveller after an adventurous day out. And don’t just take my word for it. I spoke with other guests and staff at each accommodation.

ACCOMMODATION AROUND DILI

(in alphabetical order)

Beachside Hotel

Areia Beach (12km from Dili airport)

beachsidehoteldili.com

‘The Grand Exotic’ Beachside Hotel (as it’s advertised now) range from 14 standard hotel-style ensuite rooms to self-contained suites and two bunk-style rooms. Built by Australians in 2014. It has primarily Australian power points. We were warmly welcomed and given early access to our room. The friendly staff carried our bags upstairs.

The self-contained studio apartment had a kitchen (with limited utensils), a microwave, a medium-sized fridge, and hot plates. It also had a balcony with a Bali-style daybed, a table, and two chairs overlooking the beach across the road. However, the fan didn’t work, and the noisy air conditioning unit was also on the balcony.

While the balcony doors had a flyscreen, it wasn’t a security screen, and the busy road noise negated any opportunity to enjoy the fresh air, even late at night. The doors were also difficult to open and close. The outlook of the treetops was pleasant, but you couldn’t see the sunset unless you were on the beach across the road.

The Beachside Hotel and Café located on Areia Beach.

The spacious open-plan room contained large wooden Balinese-style furniture, a small TV with no remote control, a desk and a small, worn, uncomfortable couch. Everything was tired, including the weak dribble of a shower. No toiletries were provided in the bathroom.

The room price includes daily laundry, a basic continental and a cooked egg breakfast. Each morning, I delivered the slip of what I wanted downstairs, and the staff brought it upstairs to my room, or it could be eaten downstairs in the café.

As airport pick-up was unavailable, I’d prearranged a driver because I’d been told the yellow taxi drivers were unreliable and unscrupulous. I didn’t want to know if this was true, especially as The Beachside is 15 to 20 minutes from Dili airport.

Areia Beach is lovely and peaceful, with plenty of shady trees and room to relax away from others. The water is calm and very swimmable. The sunsets round off the day, and the popular Beachside café serves lunch and dinner at little tables and chairs on the beach. It’s the ideal place to chill out.

Balcony view to beach from the Beachside Hotel.

Apart from the Top Golf Driving Range, mini golf and White Sand Volleyball across the road, and the Caz Bar next door, which isn’t open every night, there’s little else around. It’s a two-kilometre walk to Cristo Rei statue. The new JL World Hotel & Resort, just before Cristo Rei had a soft opening the week I arrived (read the full review below).

Beachside Hotel’s website photos are much better than the actual product. Considering the nightly price of USD$125 and the many positive reviews, I expected much more.

Hotel Timor

Avenida Presidente Nicolau Lobato, Dili (6km from Dili airport)

timortur.com

Originally built in 1972 as Hotel Mahkota, it was burned and abandoned during the later years of Indonesia’s occupation. A collaboration between the ‘Fundação Oriente’ and East Timorese Government saw it rebuilt in 2002 as Hotel Timor. It was renovated in 2014 but hasn’t lost any of its traditional Portuguese style, tradition and charm.

A traditionally furnished guest room at the Hotel Timor.

There are six grand apartments, two executive suites, three junior suites and 70 spacious deluxe rooms. Although the room’s colour scheme seems outdated, they are impeccably furnished with grand traditional pieces and contain every modern convenience expected of a 4-star hotel. Rooms start at US$150 and include a generous buffet breakfast and airport service.

Two large staircases at either end of the building service the two levels. While there are no lifts, the staff are always ready to assist with your luggage or shopping, including the delightfully welcoming doorman, who was always there to greet arrivals or call a car for departures.

Hotel Timor caters to groups and has three meeting rooms, a sizeable indoor restaurant opposite the entrance and reception area, a coffee bar, and a private swimming pool, ideal for laps or lazing on the sun lounges along the sides and a well-stocked bar in a pleasant tropical garden seal the deal.

The large swimming pool in the Hotel Timor’s garden.

Just down from the coffee bar, there’s a travel agent for booking travel and tours and a wonderful little gift shop full of local arts and crafts, all very reasonably priced.

Hotel Timor sits on Dili’s most prestigious avenues and opposite a roundabout. It’s not the easiest to cross to get to the beach road, but it’s not impossible and well worth trying as the foreshore comes alive with welcoming locals of an evening. However, it is an easy walk behind the hotel to the Timorese Resistance Museum.

JL World Beach Hotel & Resort

Metiaut, Cristo Rei, Dili (12.2km from Dili airport)

jlworld.tl/web/

Overlooking the white sands of Areia Beach and the last section of road to Cape Fatucama and Cristo Rei, is JL World Beach Hotel & Resort. Its sleek glass and slate-coloured two-storey modern structure sits majestically against the rusty red hillside behind.

On 8 November, the locally owned and operated tropical-inspired luxury 4-star beachfront property had a soft opening. Soft, because the 40 executive rooms and eight apartment accommodations aren’t complete yet. The official opening is earmarked for late February 2025.

The impressive entrance to the JL World Beach Hotel & Resort.

However, the stunning lagoon swimming pool, Asean Restaurant and Bar, Continental Restaurant and Bar, Seaview Terrace, Poolview Balcony, Garden Lounge, Sunset Lounge, Lobby Lounge, business and conference rooms are open and were well attended by locals. While the staff were young and nervous, they were eager, and the food and drinks were good and very reasonably priced.

Although it’s a 20-minute drive from the airport and city centre, it would be a wonderful place to enjoy a business convention. However, I’d probably spend more time daydreaming and looking at the view than listening to a presenter!

Novo Turismo Resort & Spa Hotel

Avenue Bidau, Lecidere, Dili

novoturismotimor.com

Despite the hotel’s website advertising it as ‘new’, Novo Turismo was built in 1969 and renovated in 2014. Its contemporary Portuguese architecture, natural stone, soft arches, high-vaulted ceilings in common areas and solid timber frames blend effortlessly to create a breezy, modern environment. It was the popular choice for the Indonesian military during their occupation years, so it wasn’t damaged.

Positioned halfway between the airport and Cristo Rei along the main beachside road and nearby markets, it’s ideal for business and leisure and offers airport transfers.

A pool/garden view room at the Novo Turismo Resort & Spa.

The reception area and staff are welcoming. The rooms are crisp, clean and inviting, with shiny cream tiles, sleek, dark timber furnishings and all the modern conveniences expected of any global city hotel room, from a bar fridge to a hairdryer and quality toiletries.

The deluxe room prices start at US$180 a night for a pool/garden view room.

Rooms on level two with a balcony are US$210. There are eight super deluxe rooms, two junior suites and one Presidential suite (US$450). Apparently, the rooms closest to the busy main road are noisy.

Surrounded by a mature tropical garden and white sun beds, the lagoon pool is inviting. Pool views from the buffet breakfast restaurant also make a nice start to the day. The spa is a few doors up the main road near a convenience store and offers a good range of treatments, manicures and massages to soothe a tired soul after a big day out and about discovering the island.

The inviting lagoon pool at the Novo Turismo Resort & Spa.

The principal restaurant for lunch and dinner is a massive high-roof structure directly across the road with direct access to the beach. The outlook of boats bobbing about on the azure sea invites you to linger much longer than you should. Or enjoy a stroll along the sandy shores to walk off the magnificent food.

Palm Beach Hotel Dili

Pantai Kelapa Road, Díl

Despite ‘beach’ in the name, the beach is only visible from the three rear third (top floor) rooms. The other balcony views aren’t particularly inviting or inspiring as they overlook the carpark, and an older area of Dili surrounds the hotel.

The staff are wonderfully friendly and helpful at this older style but solid property. At ground level at the back, there’s a gym and a pleasant lap pool beside an uncovered garden bar where guests can mingle during breakfast and evening drinks.

Interior of a one-bedroom apartment at the Palm Beach Hotel.

The rooms are over three levels and accessed only by stairs. Each is fully self-contained, large and spacious, even with a laundry. They are ideal for longer-term accommodation, and many are permanently rented, including the three three-bedroom apartments and three sea-view rooms. Standard rooms start at US$100, balcony rooms US$115 and two-bedroom apartments US$170 a night.

Apart from the fact that it’s several blocks from the beach (and not the best beach area either) and behind the US Embassy, Palm Beach Hotel is in far better condition and better value than the (Grand Exotic) Beachside Hotel.

Palm Spring Estate

Rua Hadilaran Surik Mas, Bairo Pite Dome Aleixo, Dili

psedili.com

Dili’s newest accommodation was to be Hilton Dili Palm Spring. On 22 November 2024, they enjoyed a soft opening as Palm Spring Estate.

International embassies and ambassador residences surround the eight-level multi-storey hotel and is clearly aiming itself at the 5-star market.

The Palm Spring Estate is Dili’s newest hotel.

Levels three and above enjoy tropical mountain and distant sparkling ocean views across to Atauro Island. The elegant, international design and locally influenced décor features natural colours, timber and stone textures, creating a relaxing escape for business and leisure travellers.

The spacious deluxe guest rooms or premium self-contained suites include a private, furnished balcony, comfortable work desk, large, airy bathroom with a rain shower and many more modern conveniences to keep any traveller happy. Executive rooms also receive complimentary breakfast, daily refreshments and access to the Executive Lounge.

Tropical wall gardens and palm tree-top ocean and island views add to the tranquillity of the pool lounge on level three. Other amenities already available include a fitness centre, a Pilates studio, a business centre, a concierge desk and a shuttle service.

One of the pool areas at the Palm Spring Estate.

The rooftop sun deck area isn’t open yet, but another pool there features the best views across Dili, the mountains, ocean, and islands. There will also be a whirlpool, kid’s pool and several eateries and bars serving refreshing and alcoholic drinks, grilled dishes, live cooking stations and various international cuisines.

The ground-floor Caffe Cino has been open for a few months and is popular for casual coffee and snacks.

Palm Spring Estate has a flexible event space that suits almost everyone, from executive board meetings to gala weddings or social one-of-a-kind rooftop celebrations.

The entrance to Caffe Cino at the Palm Spring Estate.

With Hilton’s late withdrawal from the management, the local owners and friendly, capable staff are taking small steps.

The website is yet to be finalised, so you must call or email for room rates and availability, but 40 of their 150 rooms were operational at their soft opening, and my photos tell the rest. I’m sure you will feel very much at home here, especially as more opens up – like the rooftop area.

Timor Plaza Hotel & Apartments

Comoro, Avenida Nicolau Lobato, Díli

timorplazahotel.com

Although Timor Plaza Hotel is only 2.4km from Dili airport, I wouldn’t suggest walking, especially since their free transportation in new vehicles and friendly staff greet and take your bags.

Completed in 2012, the locally owned and operated hotel is labelled as a 3-4-star business hotel, but you’ll still find plenty of leisure visitors staying. The 49 hotel rooms and 25 apartments sit atop Timor Shopping Plaza, Dili’s only shopping mall.

A spacious Superior room at the Timor Plaza Hotel.

But it’s not noisy. In fact, it’s exceptionally convenient to have so much happening around the hotel in the way of shopping, fashion, tech, telecom, eateries, supermarkets, a cinema, a spa, beauty salons, banks, travel agents, wine and spirit shops where the range and prices are delightful. Whatever you need is at your doorstep. A shuttle service is also available if you want to go further afield.

The reception on the fifth floor is next to a spacious coffee shop/cafe area with lounges, tables, and chairs. Their Panorama Restaurant (where the included buffet breakfast is served) and Sky Bar are across from reception. Small to large conference rooms are also located on level five and are well-attended. Three lifts service the hotel and restaurants.

A wide, orientally decorated walkway leads from reception to the rooms. Each is generously spacious, perhaps too much so, as my room felt half empty. The cream walls, timber flooring, and dark, modern, straight-line furniture are simple, crisp, and clean. The desk was ideal for working, another cupboard housed the fridge and coffee/tea facilities, and two single lounge chairs were perfect for relaxing and watching TV rather than sitting on the bed. Superior rooms begin at US$125. Junior Suites are US$250, and Executive Suites US$330, both with dining/entertaining areas.

A clean and well-equipped bathroom at the Timor Plaza Hotel.

The vast bathroom is also light and airy, with a full range of toiletries, a hairdryer, and slippers in the wardrobe. My small balcony looked into the back of the restaurant, but rooms on the other side have mountain views. It was nice to open the balcony doors and allow fresh air in without traffic noise while feeling safe.

The fourth floor, spacious two and three-bedroom fully furnished, fully self-contained apartments create a cosy, home away from home atmosphere for families or longer stays.

The pool and gym are a few buildings away (a two-minute walk) but still within the complex. However, you’re best being fully dressed as you pass shops to go to and from.

Open-air Panorama Restaurant and the Sky Bar have a happy hour between 5-7pm every night. On Friday evenings, a good local band plays, and the accompanying view makes this a popular gathering place for locals and guests. The lunch and dinner menus are vast, with something for everyone, from local classic Indonesian dishes, fish, meat, pizza and burgers to a cocktail and wine list just as long.

The Timor Plaza’s open-air Panorama Restaurant.

Saturday evenings are a hive of activity with an array of local vendors stalls in the car park area. Sit shoulder to shoulder with the locals, enjoying good food, drinks and, again, fabulous live music. The immersion is very unexpected but wonderfully welcoming.

This is not an extensive list of what 3-, 4- and 5-star accommodation is currently available in Dili, but it’s what I saw during my stay in November 2024. So, if you think there’s only backpacker accommodation available in Dili, I’m sure at least a couple of these are worthy of a lux traveller’s visit.

Header image courtesy of Timor Plaza Hotel.