When visiting South Korea, most people only see its capital, Seoul. And while it has a wonderful array of attractions and activities to offer visitors, so does South Korea’s second-largest city and southern port, Busan, where I discovered it was cheaper than Seoul and had fewer crowds.

Previously known as Pusan, Busan is a charming and trendy coastal city and possibly one of the most underrated cities in Asia. You’ll find stretches of spectacular sandy beaches, beautiful mountainous surrounds, and tranquil nature reserves ideal for hiking.

There’s a plethora of historical and cultural sites to explore, sensational shopping, spas, mouth-watering food markets, relaxing cafés, and classy restaurants to suit everyone’s taste and budget. Busan’s renowned International Film Festival (BIFF), held annually in October, even rivals France’s Cannes Film Festival. 

As a solo female traveller, I found walking or using public transport around Busan day and night safe and easy. This colourful city has plenty to keep you entertained, and even during my ten days here, I couldn’t cover everything on my list.

To gain a good overview of this beautiful city, day and night, visit the 120-metre-high Diamond Tower (formerly Busan Tower), open from 10am to 10pm daily. Initially built in 1973, it was refurbished and reopened in December 2021 as Diamond Tower.

The observatory and café views of the city and port are sensational, especially while relaxing with a robot (Dataro) made coffee and at night when the city twinkles. Access the tower and surrounding Yongdusan Park with traditional statues and pavilions by escalator from Gwangbok-ro shopping street.

City highlights

The kaleidoscopically colourful Gamcheon Culture Village brightens and delights visitors and locals alike. Formerly a purpose-built city for the poor in the 1920s, it was transformed in 2009 by painting the tiny residences in bright colours, thus decorating the steep mountainsides from the bay to the tips.

Grab a map from the Tourist Information Centre and follow the maze of narrow streets and stairways, discovering the unique art trails and public sculptures dispersed between interesting local craft shops, galleries, studios, and vibrant cafés.

Wear good walking shoes. There are many stairs and steep roads. If you want to get hands-on and crafty, several studios offer workshops in ceramics, calligraphy, and papermaking for visitors.

Nestled along the coastline on the way to Taejongdae Park, Huinnyeoul Culture Village is another colourful area worth visiting. You won’t find it listed in any guidebooks (yet), but there are numerous beachy vibe sea facing cafés, colourful murals, mosaics, and whitewashed Santorini-style houses to while away the hours. Visit the small museum and learn about movies filmed here that are putting it on the map.

Walk the trails, or if you want to rest your legs, ride the Danubi train around Taejongdae Park on the southern edge of Yeongdo-gu. Check out the small Taejongsa Buddhist temple, observatory, and lighthouse for stunning coastal and rocky beach views. On a super clear day, you can see Japan’s Tsushima Island. Pop-up food stalls provide a feast of fresh fish foodie fare. The park is a haven for locals on weekends.

Now a hiker’s walking trail paradise, rocky Igidae Park was a former military zone until 1993. At the end of the coastal sea and forest trail, stroll along the transparent Oryukdo Skywalk. It extends 30 metres above a cliff and the sea. You can also watch female divers (Haenyeo) reap seaweed and seafood from the seas around here.

Below the luxurious Marine City skyscrapers, discover Bay 101. This chic and trendy spot is awash with cafés, restaurants, a marina and yacht club. Another relaxing way to view the city is aboard a catamaran tour which departs from Suyeong Bay Yachting Centre. Sunset tours are extremely popular. Enjoy drinks and local finger food while soaking up the majestic views of Haeundae Beach, Gwangalli Beach, and Gwangandaegyo Bridge (or Diamond Bridge) as it lights up against the darkening sky.

Busan has hosted its International Film Festival annually since 1996. It’s now the most famous in Asia. Built in 2011, the futuristically designed Busan Film Centre celebrates this success. The cantilever roof entrance area is the longest in the world, and its nightly dynamic LED light show displays are not to be missed.

Home to a multitude of cinemas, and theatres, BIFF Square hosts the annual Busan International Film Festival. Like the Hollywood Walk of Fame, BIFF Square has Star Street featuring renowned artists’ handprints. It’s only minutes from Jagalchi Market, and you’ll also find fabulous street food carts to satisfy any tummy rumbles.

Seomyeon District is the shopping mecca of Busan. Its streets and alleyways are always lively, especially at night. Get lost hunting for bargains amongst its interesting fashion and cosmetic shops, underground malls, large Lotte department store, bars, cafés, restaurants, and street food stalls.

The world’s largest shopping centre, Shinsegae Centum City, is a Guinness World Record holder. With a metro station below, you don’t have to step outside to stroll the countless shops, bookstores, art galleries, basement food court, children’s playground, ice rink, or cinema. You’ll even find a massive, traditional Korean jjimjilbang or hot bathhouse. 

Spa Land offers an authentic luxury wellness experience with 22 luxurious hot-spring baths, treatment rooms, outdoor pools, cafés, resting rooms, 13 themed saunas and much more. But beware. Korean spas are traditionally naked and gender segregated. But I enjoyed my spa experience and would happily go again now that I know the rules.

Cimer Spa at Paradise Hotel is a stunning mineral-rich, luxuriant outdoor hot-spring spa experience which overlooks the ocean. With a bar also onsite, absorbing the expansive sea views is even more relaxing. However, as it’s only available to Paradise Hotel guests, it’s worth pretending to be a celebrity for at least a day. You can also try your luck at the casino and perhaps be able to stay longer.

On the edge of the port is the lively Jagalchi Fish Market. Spanning several streets and buildings, it’s the largest in South Korea. From 5am daily, watch Korean women, or ‘Jagalchi Ajumma’, set up fresh catches of red snapper, mackerel, hagfish, crustaceans, live octopus, sea squirt, eel and more.

Locals eat breakfast here, but visitors usually buy their desired seafood and can eat it live, sliced into sashimi or cooked at one of the many restaurants on the top floor of the main building. We bought the live octopus I ate at my Busan cooking class from here.

With a labyrinth of stalls, almost anything and everything can be found at Nampodong Market. From striking vintage clothing and household goods to unique souvenirs, bric-a-brac and much more, often at bargain basement prices. You can haggle, but the shop owner won’t sell if you go too low. 

Places to eat

Begin your street food market culinary adventure amongst the bustling network of stalls at Haeundae Market behind Haeundae Beach, enjoying mouth-watering hotteok (sweet, filled pancakes) and eomuk (fish cakes).

For a Korean barbecue, head to Haeundae Somunnan Amso Galbijip. They’re renowned for short ribs and gamja-guksu (potato noodles). Another delicious traditional Korean barbecue restaurant nearby is An Ga. The more in your group, the better, as you can each order something different and try the entire menu.

A feast for your eyes and stomach is Gwangbokdong Food Street. A narrow street chock-a-block with restaurants and food stalls. Dumplings are a must, or let the vendors pick for you if you’re game.

Step it up a bit at Boksoondoga F1963. A popular makgeolli (rice wine) brewery and restaurant in a former wire factory. Dine on modern Korean and classic European meals like beef ragu, tteokbokki (simmered rice cakes) and black cod fritters fermented in 20-year-old soy sauce while overlooking a chic bamboo terrace.

Make a day of your visit by soaking up the cultural space before or after. Discover unique art galleries, a bookstore, and event spaces, or for variety, you may prefer one of the other cafés and restaurants. 

Want to eat Korean fare with the locals? Queue up at Choryang Milmyeon for the most authentic around. Slurp up its signature traditional Busan cold noodle soup (milmyeon) and giant mouth-watering dumplings (wangmandu) while seated on the floor.

Not a fan of Korean food? The buzzing Galmegi Brewing Co is a polished concrete and pine American-style brewpub and offers American fare to match. There’s one a block from Gwangalli Beach and several others across the city.

Because of its seaside position, rumour has it that Busan has the best fishcakes (eomuk) in Korea and a Busan station eatery, Samjin Amook is the most famous fishcake bakery in Korea. Established in 1953, it’s also the oldest fishcake producer. Today, it has a museum, several outlets across Busan and one in Singapore that opened in 2017. The fishcakes, made from whitefish offcuts, come in all shapes and guises, and must be devoured to be believed.

Art and culture

Cutting-edge creative art and culture are alive and well all-over South Korea. In Busan, check out F1963 (mentioned above) and the Radium Art Centre, which is jam-packed with something to suit almost every taste, from a head-spinning range of art, digital installations, paintings, photography, and music. 

At Kim Jae Sun Gallery, fine contemporary Korean artworks are more their thing. They showcase an enormous range of trailblazing art as never been seen before.

Linking man and nature, the Museum of Contemporary Art (MOCA Busan) is an immersive experience. The experimental space comprises contemporary artworks using a mixture of new media, plants, sound and LED light. In 2018, Patrick Blanc, a French botanist, created the vertical garden adorning the façade.

Discover everything about Busan, its history, and port activities at Busan Modern History Museum. In a former Japanese colonial era building, entry is free. Watch the documentary film before strolling the small rooms and collections. 

Busan’s beaches

South Korea’s most notable beach is Haeundae Beach, hence its popularity in summer. Only overshadowed by the massive high-rise buildings and luxury hotels behind, its beautiful creamy sands stretch for miles. It’s a lively district with plenty to do at any time, whether it’s eating, drinking, walking the boardwalk or just relaxing and soaking up the beachy vibes and golden sunsets.

A short walk from Haeundae Beach, jump on a Beach Train or the Blue Line Sky Capsule that now uses the old Donghae Nambu Line and absorb the vastness of Busan’s scenic coastline. Opened in 2020 and lasting around 30 minutes, the individual and colourful, retro-looking Sky Capsule train holds four people and stops at Cheongsapo.

If you’re heading to Songjeong Beach, it’s a further 20-minute pleasant coastal walk. However, the world’s first eco-friendly, battery charged Haeundae Beach Train runs all the way to Songjeong with six stops. If you want to check out Daritdol Skybridge, jump aboard the train.

Another lovely beach and popular surfing paradise is Songjeong Beach. Less crowded in summer, with many pleasant restaurants, cafés, bars and shops, it’s easily reached on the Beach Train or Sky Capsule.

Also, less crowded but far more magical and romantic is Gwangalli Beach, particularly at sunset and nightfall, with its proximity to and views of the colourful Gwangandaegyo Bridge (Diamond Bridge). Surrounded by Marine City luxury residences and fancy cars lining the streets, you know the bars and restaurants have a certain panache. 

Songdo Beach is Busan’s first public beach. Opened in 1913, today it’s been transformed into a vast family playground with a cable car, walking trails, a dinosaur park and Busan’s third skywalk. Songdo Skywalk is the longest in Busan, stretching from the beach to the top of Turtle Island. Be mesmerized by the surrounding coast and sea along the way.

Relax and enjoy the incredible harbour and coastal path views on the ten-minute Songdo Cable Car ride from the beach to Annam Park. If you’re afraid of heights, don’t jump in one of the glass-floored capsules. Stroll the scenic walking trails around Annam Park. Stop for a picnic or eat at one of the many food stalls. The dinosaur park is also here.

Surrounded by pine forest and sporting sizzling sunsets, Dadaepo Beach is possibly the most charming of Busan’s beaches. The magnificent vanilla fine sand beach has an easily accessible coastal path. Each evening around the fountain in Dadaepo, be entertained by an incredible sound and light show. 

Spiritual awakenings

On Mount Geumjeongsan, you’ll find two beautiful temples, Beomeosa and Seokbulsa. A pleasant hour hike to the 17th century Beomeosa Temple will reward you with vast picturesque views of the city and sea. Stay programs are also available here for a more immersive, spiritual experience. Seokbulsa Temple is accessible via a retro-style cable car, Geumgang Park Ropeway (the longest in Korea) and a three-kilometre walk. Surrounded by caves and intriguing 40-metre-high religious image-etched boulders, it’s a truly fascinating and unique Asian temple.

Serene Samgwangsa Temple was only built in 1983, but it’s one of Busan’s grandest Buddhist temples. On the slopes of Mount Baekyangsan in central Busan, it now occupies 120,000 square metres of hillside. Overlooking the Seomyeon shopping and commercial district, the temple oozes calm and feels a world away. Its Daebo Tower, with nine tiers, is said to be the tallest stone pagoda in Asia.

The charm of Haedong Yonggung Temple, meaning ‘Dragon Palace’, is its location. Hugging the rugged coastline overlooking the East Sea northeast of Busan, it’s one of only a handful of seaside temples in Asia and it’s jaw-droppingly beautiful. The temple was built in 1376 and rebuilt in the 1930s after the Japanese occupation almost destroyed it. Interestingly, snow has never settled on its mystical Goddess of Mercy statue but arrowroot flowers grow around her all year.

When to visit

Unlike Seoul, Busan’s seaside location affords it a milder winter and pleasant sub-tropical summer. Like most northern Asian countries, the most impressive time to visit is spring for the cherry blossoms and autumn for the rainbow-coloured foliage. But Busan is welcoming at any time.

During Buddha’s birthday, all temples are adorned from top to bottom with bright, colourful paper lanterns. Lantern Festival is a magical time to visit, but it’s worth noting that crowds become excessive and temple stays aren’t available.

Getting there

Busan’s Gimhae International Airport has regular domestic and overseas flights. Look into flying in or out of either Seoul or Busan. Then train, bus or drive between to see more of the South Korean countryside.

South Korea has three train systems. I used KTX, the fastest, which only took three hours from Seoul to Busan, with a few short stops along the way. All trains are clean and safe, and the staff are friendly and helpful. I found the tickets easy to purchase online, and when I had to cancel some, the cost was quickly refunded to my card (or bank account). 

I wouldn’t recommend a long-haul bus. While it’s the cheapest option, the journey takes a full day between Seoul and Busan, and the buses are usually packed. When I thought this was my only option of returning to Seoul in the days before Chinese New Year, I found trying to purchase tickets both online and in person in-country too challenging (luckily) to continue as my Korean was far from perfect.

If you’re confident in driving in a foreign country, rent a car. You’ll find most major car rental companies represented in major cities and South Korean roads are easily navigable. You’ll then be totally in charge of your adventure.

Getting Around

The local city bus and metro transportation services are clean and convenient, making travel cheap and enjoyable. For all public transport within South Korea, you need a T-money card purchased at any convenience store. Load money onto it and tap it when entering and leaving a bus or metro station. The advantage that T-money has over other transport cards is that it can also be used at vending machines, grocery and department stores, and some pay phones.

To see all the major tourist sites, investigate purchasing a Busan City Tour Bus Day Pass. Like hop-on hop-off buses in other countries, there are four routes, and your pass is valid for ten hours (www.kkday.com).

Although I prefer discovering places my way, I also joined a couple of English-speaking tours to learn more about the region’s past and its people. These tours are ideal for people with less time.

All images: © Nannette Holliday