6 of Tropical Asia's Best Colonial Hotels
It’s hardly surprising that the remaining traces of colonial Asia are disappearing. The region’s dynamic growth means high-rise buildings stand where spacious bungalows once held pride of place. History sometimes gets little attention as countries look to the future. Hill stations where expats enjoyed cool walks in the mist are now densely crowded and growing warmer as the climate changes.
But in one respect at least, reminders of colonial days are being actively preserved. Some fine old colonial hotels have been refurbished across tropical Asia, offering a treat for older visitors and others with a hankering for the past. Here are six of our favourites. All are five-star hotels; if staying there is beyond your budget, you can always drop by for a meal or a drink, and take a good look around.
Majestic Hotel, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
When I first stayed at the Majestic in 1977, it was 45 years old and unrestored – a formerly grand Kuala Lumpur hotel that had fallen on hard times. It was like something out of Graham Greene (who actually stayed here in 1950 and complained of melancholia). My room had the high ceiling that one expects of a colonial hotel but was musty and had a tired feel.
Today the hotel is fully refurbished, the old wing retained and a much larger new wing built alongside. It’s once again among the city’s top hotels.
The rooms are ultra-modern, with views of Kuala Lumpur’s ever-changing skyline. A pianist in tie and white jacket plays in the lobby, the Colonial Café in the old wing serves English-style high tea, and the bar next to it stands below the original domed ceiling. The roof garden boasts a pond, a gazebo and masses of colourful tropical flowers.
What to see nearby
The Majestic is just across the road from Kuala Lumpur’s historic railway station, built in 1910 and surely one of Southeast Asia’s finest example of colonial architecture. It’s a little run-down now but is still a functioning station, with four platforms. Its Moorish-style architecture continues to delight colonial history enthusiasts.
Galle Face Hotel, Colombo, Sri Lanka
The Galle Face Hotel is a lovely old hotel in central Colombo overlooking the Indian Ocean. Built by a group of British businessmen in 1864, it’s one of Asia’s oldest hotels.
The early 20th century saw the addition of two new wings. The hotel has been refurbished since, and the interiors upgraded, but it continues to evoke the days of old.
My favourite experience was having breakfast at the open Verandah restaurant overlooking the lawn and terrace, with the ocean as a backdrop. The tall palm trees on the lawn give the place a satisfyingly tropical feel. In the evenings, al fresco dinner is served on the terrace above the beach. If it’s a drink you’re after, try the Traveller’s Bar on the terrace.
What to see nearby
The hotel adjoins Galle Face Green, a 5-hectare seafront park that was created more than 150 years ago and is one of Colombo’s largest open spaces. It’s fun to go walking here, especially in the evening when it takes on a carnival air, with food stalls in full swing, families promenading along the waterfront and people flying kites.
Strand Hotel, Yangon, Myanmar
A British entrepreneur, John Darwood, built the Strand Hotel in 1901. The Sarkies brothers, who owned a chain of luxury hotels in Southeast Asia, later acquired it. During the days of the British Empire it was one of the most famous colonial hotels in Asia. But it later fell into neglect amid continuing changes in ownership.
Its rebirth came in 1993 after a complete renovation, and today it’s again one of Yangon’s best hotels. It has remained true to its origins and does not have a new wing or a pool, unlike many other renovated hotels. It has just 31 rooms.
The Strand’s colonial style looks better than ever, with its white colonnade, marble floors, teak furniture and ceiling fans. Its lobby and dining room draw visitors back to an earlier era, and its Sarkies Bar is a popular place to unwind and listen to live jazz music.
What to see nearby
The Strand is in the heart of Yangon’s downtown, a district rich in old colonial buildings as a result of Myanmar’s years of relative isolation and lack of development. It’s a three-minute walk to the busy Yangon River, where you can watch the passenger ferries coming and going.
(Note: This article was published prior to the brutal military coup in February 2021. The country is still in a state of armed conflict and civil unrest. It is currently not safe to travel to Myanmar. Foreigners have been arbitrarily detained by the military dictatorship and activists have been executed.)
Raffles Hotel, Singapore
The famous Raffles Hotel is one of Asia’s best-known colonial hotels. The Sarkies brothers established it in 1887 and named it after Singapore’s founder, Stamford Raffles.
Over the years a new main building was constructed and three new wings added, and it recently underwent another major renovation, increasing the number of guest rooms to 115. Another innovation is that all guests now have their own butler.
Visitors in search of Singapore’s colonial history will delight in its architecture. Its restaurants include the well-known Tiffin Room, which has operated since 1892 and specialises in North Indian food.
The historic Long Bar, where the Singapore Sling cocktail was invented, underwent a complete makeover in the latest renovation. Once the haunt of rubber planters, it’s firmly on the tourist trail these days and prices are a bit steep but it’s still worth a visit. The Writers Bar off the lobby has also been upgraded.
What to see nearby
Singapore’s excellent National Gallery and National Museum are both less than 15 minutes away on foot. The Raffles City Shopping Centre is even closer. And the hop-on hop-off sightseeing bus stops at the hotel throughout the day.
Raffles Grand Hotel d'Angkor, Siem Reap, Cambodia
Built during French rule, this hotel near the Siem Reap River has been operating since 1932. Raffles Hotels acquired it in the 1990s and carried out a series of major renovations, including adding a new wing. It recently underwent another six-month restoration, which in the hotel’s words “revived the romance of a bygone era”. The hotel has 119 rooms, a pool and a spa, and is set in 6 hectares (15 acres) of gardens.
You can get a taste of the place by having a meal or drink and taking a walk through the gardens. The Apsara Terrace offers Cambodian dancing to accompany your meal. The signature cocktail in the Elephant Bar is something called the Airavata, whose ingredients include rum and coconut.
What to see nearby
The highly-regarded Angkor National Museum is a five-minute walk away. It’s devoted to Khmer civilization and the glories of Angkor. The hotel overlooks the Royal Independence Gardens, a popular spot among both locals and foreign visitors.
Hotel Majestic Saigon, Vietnam
The Hotel Majestic Saigon is a fine old French colonial hotel. It opened in 1925, designed by a Frenchman and built by a local Chinese businessman. It’s location in the heart of old Saigon is a big drawcard.
After many alterations and improvements over the years, it remains one of the city’s best old hotels. The latest renovation in 2011 saw the addition of many new rooms.
Today it’s state-owned and if it doesn’t feel as ultra-modern as some renovated colonial hotels, don’t let that put you off. It’s comfortable and retains an old world charm.
It was a popular hangout for foreign correspondents during America’s war in the 1960s and early ‘70s. They’d gather in its rooftop bar overlooking the Saigon River to trade yarns. The bar is still there; you can listen to live music and enjoy the views below. A restaurant adjoins it.
What to see nearby
The hotel stands where one of old Saigon’s main thoroughfares, Dong Khoi Street, meets the Saigon River. Stroll along the river and watch the cargo boats plying their trade. Or take a walk up Dong Khoi Street to the colonial Notre Dame Cathedral at its other end.
Header image: © Alan Williams
